Team Mammut

Ice Fest Season

2012-01-30T06:55:00.000-08:00

Despitepretty dry and grim ice conditions here in New England, the Ice Fest and TradeShow season has been full on. I havebeen spending just about every week since late December traveling to one or theother. And it’s been a totalblast! Tons of friends, family, newroutes, and LOTS of partying and meeting new folks. First up was a trip to Colorado to climb atthe Rigid Designator Amphitheatre on the way to the Ouray Ice Fest, do thecomp, climb some more, and basically enjoy the sun and good temps. The climbing in Vail was amazing, and I wasable to spend a couple days sampling some of the best mixed climbing in theworld. I meet up with fellow competitorsSam Elias and Emily Harrington who were also there prepping for the comp. It was nothing but inspirational watchingthem quietly CRUSH everything in sight!! Thanks to both of them for all the beta and encouragement!

The Amphitheater

Emily hiking M9

Ouray 2012: After two 5^th place finishes and no Josh Whartonthis year, I thought I was a shoo-in for 4^th...HA, but it was not tobe and I ended up 6^th. I haveto say I do love the unique rush of tying in beneath the route, hearing thecrowd and announcers cheering and jeering above, and goin’ ALL in.

Up next was the Adirondack Mountain Fest in New York, whereI worked the Mammut booth handing out gear and beta, and had a great time hangingout with both new and old friends from all over. With no time to spare I packed up again andheaded to Utah to the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake, which anyone who hasbeen will tell you is overwhelming, exhausting, and an absolute ragger of agood time.

Mammut at the Mountain Fest: This dude knows whats up

The Usual Suspects

Now, time marches on and this week I’m back home to help setan indoor drytooling competition route at our local Ice Fest the SmugglersNotch Ice Bash. Fellow setters MattMcCormick, Doug Madara and I go all out for this. Full on hanging logs, upside-down Icefeatures, and every mixed move in the book…gonna be good!!

And then FINALLY some time to get back to the realmotivation; New routes, these two just went in 20 minutes from my house.

Josh Worley - Burlington VT

The Never Ending Story

2012-01-23T18:52:00.000-08:00

This winters plans started many years ago but just happened to luck into place this summer.

I was lucky enough that my parents friends had this old Scamper that had been sitting in their yard for about five years not getting used. They were willing to give it to me.

Not only that but it was in Castle Valley Utah right next to Jah Man a great climb that I had looked at the last time I was in Castle Valley climbing the Castleton Tower.

This was the first drive me and my bud Jake took with the Scamper. It was a good 4x4 off road test for the camper and the truck. Up a gnarly wash a few miles short of the base of Jah Man.

We made the hike in and the heat of day was just starting to melt the frost off the north faces of the trail.

I got a few photos on the climb but this isn't what this blogs really about.

Here we are on the top of the spire. An amazing day.

What this is all leading to is the work its taken to get where I am now.

Canada, where there is lots of snow.

Work can have many meanings. Like the work it takes to get up a big climb or ski down a big face.

Then there is the work that takes time, patience, mental vigour, and strength. This was one of those project.

The roof on the Scamper had leaked over time and was in need of some major work.

The wood that gave the edges of the roof their strength and structure where all rotten. The sky light had cracked and also leaked. It took a few weeks to rebuild the roof and get it back together for our road trip to Canada. I got it back together just before the deadline.

This was our home for the first week we stayed in Canada. The parking lot of Revelstoke Mountain Resort.

The first stop in Canada was Revelstoke B.C. and I made a last minute decision to compete in the Freeskiing World Tour. This was a big event where the European Freeride World Tour joined with the U.S. Tour.

Here I am on the right. Pumped just after getting out of the Heli. I kicked off a ski in a hard turn after a cliff drop just before another cliff and took a big fall but came out with out a scratch.

Check out the video from my run. Oh well thats the way it goes sometimes.

http://biglines.com/video/fwt-revelstoke-2012-dylan-crossman

Here's a photo from where the judges vista was. We started on the peak on the left.

We spent another week in Revelstoke while it just kept on dumping snow. We went snowmobile skiing a few times and skied the Resort again. My snowmobile seized up and we had to tow it out. I took the motor apart and found that one of the pistons rings had chipped off some chrome and scratched cylinder and piston real bad. I looked and called around for parts but it was a dead end so I took out my diamond stone from the tune kit and got to work. Just made it feel smooth to the touch and put it back together. She started right up.

The next day was cold and clear and we left the sleds back in town and stuck the skins on and hiked up into the high alpine. I have driven over Rogers pass many times but never when it has been clear. Wow. I'll have to spend a season up here.

We got Revelstuck long enough and it was just time to move on. Off to the west we go.

In Whistler B.C. now but been in more then a few places between. It's been worth the work and it's still making me stronger every day.

Thanks to everyone that helps make this possible.

Peace and Love

Crossman, Out.

www.skierboyz.blogspot.com

www.dylancrossman.blogspot.com

Mountain Niceness~A Sunny Valley Day

2012-01-04T08:10:00.000-08:00

Rock Climbing in Savona, Italy

2012-01-02T07:59:00.000-08:00

This year, we spent Christmas in the Pennavaire Valley, a quiet gorge near the old-school, seaside locale of Finale Ligure, Italy. I'd had this valley recommended by friends over the past few years, but was always skeptical due to the lack of climbing media coverage and the feeling that the Italian Coast lacked the clout of the big Spanish winter destinations, like El Chorro, Margalef and Santa Linya. My concerns were short lived, though, once we arrived and got acquainted with the area. Although the valley's crags weren't in vast supply, they were of very high quality with all the characteristics of Spanish stone.

Logistics: Fly into Nice and rent a car. It's about 1.5 hours to the valley from the airport. Have Euros available for the drive on the toll highway - our credit cards did not work until we got into Italy.

Accommodation: We stayed in the hamlet of Vesallo at a beautiful bed and breakfast called Casa dei Nonni. The hosts spoke fluent English, easing our transition into the new culture. Our apartment was beautiful and had a full kitchen so we could prepare our own food. The village sits high on the hillside, and gets plenty of midday sun, a precious commodity in the depths of winter. I'd highly recommend this casa to visiting climbers.

Gear: I brought a 70-metre Mammut Serenity and it was the perfect rope for the trip. It held up well to limestone abuse, the skinny diameter was light for the airplane and the length allowed for safe lowering from many of the 60-metre-plus pitches. Sixteen quickdraws and a pair of shoes that perform well on technical faces and steep overhangs will round out your kit.

Guidebook: All the crags in the valley are covered in the book, Oltrafinale, a companion to the massive Finale rock climbing guide. Casa dei Nonni sold Oltrafinale, as did Bar Neva in Cisano about 15 minutes down the road.

The Rock: Although each crag differed slightly in character, the overall nature of the climbing was vertical to moderately overhanging on tufas, edges and generally positive holds. Routes from 4+ to 8b+ were available, but the greatest concentration for abundance and quality seemed to be from 6a to 8a. One special feature of the cliffs was the plethora of both moderate and advanced routes, allowing groups of mixed abilities to climb in close proximity. For instance, my five-year-old daughter could top-rope a 5a slab while I worked a 30-metre overhanging tufa route just around the corner. Finally, the routes were very well bolted - runouts were rare.

Conditions: The crags are generally north and south-facing, allowing climbing in a variety of seasons, but for the best crags cold weather is best. The months from November to March seem optimal, and we had perfect conditions at the end of December: frosty mornings with pleasant climbing in the midday sun. We were told the weather was drier than usual, and if it's cold or wet the pocketed walls of Finale Ligure, about 40 minutes away, are a better bet.

The Food - What's there to say? It's authentic Italian and is absolutely incredible. Whether you choose to eat out or buy fresh pasta from the local grocer, you won't be disappointed. Oh, and the gelato is the best on the planet.

Other Activities: This is the Italian Riviera, so beachside activities are abundant. The promenade below Finale Ligure is full of cafes, shops and amusement park rides for kids, all right off the beach. We enjoyed a couple of fantastic hikes, one along an ancient Roman road above the sea, and a second above treeline at the top of the Pennavaire Valley. The sightseeing in the medieval villages was wonderful and for a big city experience, Genova was only an hour away.

If you are looking for a climbing destination a bit off the standard circuit, but with all the allure of the European hotspots, consider the Pennavaire Valley for a future trip. We've visited many of the big name crags over the years, and were not disappointed with this Italian destination.

Happy New Years - Marc Bourdon, Squamish, BC

Waiting for La Nina

2011-12-28T17:21:00.000-08:00

Since Autumn, I have been patiently waiting for the ski season to start. Due to the mild temps and lack of precipitation, skiing wasn't really an option so I did what any reasonable person would do, I went rock climbing.

Crag near Mt Hood. Fun climbing on thin holds

Recently bolted line, RIP Kurt Albert. Thanks to Walter Burkhardt for his tireless new routing and STOKE!

In early Dec, I found myself doing rope access work on a wind farm outside of Lawton, Oklahoma. The Wichita Mountains have loads of granite and lots of gigantic animals roaming around. Hiking to the crags is more dangerous than the climbing itself. The climbing there was really good. Super spicy run-out sport climbs. The area has lots of short steep splitters (20-40ft) atop long slabs, so adventure cruising with a small rack is the thing to do.

Larry Longhorn staring contest, I lost

At what elevation do deer turn to elk?

Buffalo are everywhere.

Don't even think about rappelling here, climbing is ok though.

Scenic and unique little joint where longhorns, elk and buff will walk right past you as you are belaying. The skiing in the PNW did get good for a while, right now its bad, still waiting for the powder.

Mammut 150 Peaks Project: Pico de Orizaba/Citlaltepetl

2011-12-28T08:54:00.001-08:00

Mammut 150 PeaksProject: Pico de Orizaba/Citlaltepetl

Citlaltepetl, or Pico de Orizaba, is the highest mountain inMexico, and the third highest in North America. This 18,491’ volcano is only 62miles from the Gulf of Mexico, giving it about 9,000 feet of vertical relief.The village of Tlachichuca is the most common starting point, and the meetingpoint for team Trepacerros.

The team arrived by bus from different parts of Mexico a dayearly to acclimatize in the village, and I arrived from Colorado just after. A2 hour four wheel drive road takes you to 14,000 feet where a small, primitivestone hut is used as the base camp for most climbers. The Piedre Grande hut cansleep about 60 people, but has no running water, heat or other amenities, it isjust a basic shelter to protect climbers from the wind and cold. Most of theJeep operators will also provide stoves, fuel and someone to watch over yourbelongings while you climb.

We decided to spend the first day hiking the steep, dustytrail to the first bit of snow and ice below the glacier to brush up on cramponand ice axe technique while gaining some acclimatization at about 15,500’. Thedays were warm and sunny with clouds far below us in the coastal valleys. Thismade an amazing panorama each evening at sunset.

The morning of Dec 11^th we woke at midnight, madesome quick breakfast and coffee and headed out the door. The midnight air waswarm and we hiked along quickly though the crumbly moraine past the oldaqueducts and up to the snowline. We put on the crampons in the dark, and theair became chilly as we ascended higher over the ice. We reached the glacier atabout 16,000’ and we silently began climbing the snow slopes first trending tothe West, then back toward the East following the line of least resistance. Thesun came up and cast a beautiful mountain shadow on the plains far below withthe setting moon behind.

It was cold climbing through the dark, and as we gainedelevation the altitude began to take its toll. We all got very quiet as westeadily moved one foot higher than the other. Reaching the summit crater ofthe volcano the sun finally hit our faces and the winds were so light that wewere able to linger on the summit for some time, taking pictures and chattingwith other climbers who had summited from the South side of the mountain.

The descent was leisurely with the sun warming us quicklyand with the snow being perfect for easy cramponing we made good time. Halfwaydown the mountain, where the slope mellows out a bit, we took advantage of theconditions for a little glissading to speed the descent as well.

Near the bottom of the glacier we took the time for someadditional photographs and fun before stripping off the hardware and hikingback down to the hut. Our transportation was waiting to take us back to Tlachichucafor cold beer and hot Mexican food!

In all it was a safe and successful climb with all 7climbers reaching the summit and returning home safely. The team consisted of 6young Mexican climbers we had met through a hiking club. For some this wastheir second time on Orizaba, for others it was their first time at such highaltitude. This crew is using their ascent to help raise local awareness ofglobal warming and the rapid decline of Mexican glaciers.

More photos can be found here http://gallery.me.com/mtnguide#100186

Live Free and Climb - New Hampshire Style!

2011-12-21T10:43:00.000-08:00

Winter conditions took some time to arrive in New Hampshire but this past week made up for the late start. After a bit of snow fall last week the temperatures plunged to minus numbers over the weekend. Ice routes came into shape and the Presidential Peaks are now encased in rime and snow. This is all we needed to get lots of mountain folks out climbing peaks and scraping around on the ice routes.

Mt Washington's summit viewed from the Ammonoosuc Trail.

Last few steps up to the summit buildings.

Over the weekend I climbed Mt Washington with The Cody team. The team comes to the Granite State year round to climb with Mooney Mountain Guides. Whether it be rock, ice or mountain travel they are always ready for a fun filled weekend. This weekends trip was geared towards reaching the summit of Mt Washington in winter. It was a tough climb for all - we had great success with everyone reaching the high point.

New ice tools and a very lightweight rope. The Mammut Serenity Rope is a perfect rope for a high end ice route like this.

The other news is Cannon's winter routes are in shape. Over the past two days Matt and I each guided separate guests up the Black Dike. This is a sought after prize for many climbers in the New Hampshire area. The timing was right for MMG guest's Paul and Jerry who both crushed by climbing the route in very fine style, not bad for the first NH ice climb of the season.

The Black Dike and Fafnir Ice routes on Cannon Cliff New Hampshire.

Jerry hitting the turf at the top of the Black Dike. Jerry is a gear specialist, he order three packs to compare and ended up keeping the best - he is using a Mammut Trion Guide Pack.

The year is coming to a close - its been fantastic. Thanks to Mammut for all the support, clothing is awesome, climbing gear and ropes are the best, and the list goes on. I am honored to be part of the Mammut team.

Happy Holidays to all,
Art Mooney

Santa Linya

2011-12-12T05:10:00.000-08:00

As incredible as Terradets was, we decided to check out Santa Linya for our last day in Spain this year. So we packed up in the morning and drove right over. Much of the Cova Gran was wet, so we didn't end up climbing a lot. (Even if it had been perfectly dry, I definitely wouldn't have been able to climb much [of the hard, hard climbs] anyway.) In the afternoon, we switched to a nearby crag called Futbolin for a few extra pitches of more moderate climbing...

Driving from Terradets to Santa Linya

Oh! That's what the fog looks like from above it...

Oceans of Spanish fog...

Walking the streets of Santa Linya while waiting for the fog to burn off

Poop everywhere

For those who have spent the last few months bouldering and/or sitting in the rain, the Cova Gran is WAY too steep. (David sending an 8a to the left of the Cova Gran)

Packing our bags for the flight home the next day in front of the Futbolin crag

Inspiration

2011-12-10T15:40:00.001-08:00

Where does it come from? For me it comes in many forms such as the beauty of a place, the serene ambiance of a location, the waterfall that lies to one’s back, the birds chirping in the trees, the aesthetics of the rock and the movements of a route, the history of a climb, the people we climb with and the energy they bring; all of these things bring me inspiration, all of these things drive me to want to climb and appreciate the simplicity of doing it. Seeing new places and learning new routes, these too add to my inspiration. For some months Ben and I had plans to travel to Utah to shoot a wedding for some friends; we planned on making a climbing trip out of it. I had yet the opportunity to check out the limestone of southern Utah and so a new place with new routes was on the horizon – new inspiration. However, forming a routine also really inspires me and this can lead to be reluctant to leave a place (especially Yosemite), especially when the weather is good . But I realize that sometimes getting settled into what is comfortable can leave me lacking. Regardless, when it finally came time for Ben and I to make good on our plan to head east to Utah for the majority of November I did so with a little hesitation.

We had been enjoying quite a wonderful Fall in the Valley. We both made an ascent of the ultra-classic and technically challenging Kurt Smith testament to the ground up standard “Keeper of the Flame” – a beautiful, thin line that goes for about 130 feet clocking in at 5.13. I believe this to be another first female ascent for me. We had also been spending some time climbing on the South Face of Half Dome and inspiration was high. The location, the remoteness (although cell reception is better no place else than back there), the rock quality, the difficulty – it was all giving us so much. Ron and I had also been enjoying some climbs of the day on old, obscure, classics such as Pat and Jack’s “Cat Squirrel” and the Owl’s “Mirage”. But our time was drawing to a close and although snow had been falling conditions were due to only get better. Yosemite is perhaps the place that inspires me the most and with that comes a huge list of routes to do and boulders to scramble and my feelings were mixed about leaving. I had to remind myself that the rocks and the routes would be there when I return, so no need to fret over wanting to do it all in a hurry. Besides, we would be heading to some of the best limestone in the west, it couldn’t be so bad.

Keeper of the Flame - Ron Kauk photo

: Ron Kauk photo

Our first day climbing we went to the Virgin River Gorge. As we pulled into the parking off of I-15 my eyes widened with excitement. The wall was steep, featured and draws seemed to hang from almost every route. I was excited to finally see the famed VRG. I had heard plenty about the freeway but I was still shocked at the crag’s proximity to the road. A quick ten minute approach in which one has to cross under the freeway to get to the cliff- walking amongst dirty diapers, discarded condoms, dismissed beer cans and other signs of the seedy underbelly of humanity had me marveling at the juxtaposition. It was like passing through hell to get to heaven. At the base of the wall Ben rattled off a slew of names and grades neither of which I heard very clearly over the buzz of the cars below. It all looked good and I was at a complete loss for what to tackle first. Thankfully I was defeated in our match of Roshambo and I could let him give me a tour. Watching him on the warm-ups I realized very quickly how steep the wall really was. I climbed a few pitches and was feeling pretty good about it all before I was thwarted by a pumpy and powerful 12c. I was surprised, confused and started to find it harder and harder to concentrate. The constant clamor of I-15 was taking over my mind. I was losing psyche and growing more frustrated by the minute. My inspiration was disappearing as I became mesmerized by the freeway. It was like looking at something too hideous to look at but for some reason not being able to turn away. If only I could look away, tune it out, concentrate; I struggled with myself. I belayed Ben on a few more pitches and much to my relief the sun set and we were able to leave this place with it’s bittersweet position.

Thankfully the next day we went to the Cathedral – a beautiful limestone cliff with a 30 minute approach out in the Utah hills. There were no cars, no rumble of the road and no problem hearing your partner. The rock was just as amazing as the VRG. Inspiration was back up! I was psyched. Coming from Yosemite my fitness level was pretty high but my mental preparedness for overhanging routes wasn’t as high. It took some getting used to for me to come out of my comfort zone and to climb spread out. It took some getting used to in general. I had to try hard, I had to take the big whips, I had to let go of the fear of falling and know that the falls were clean – there were no ledges to hit or pieces to pull. I had to get out of my trad mind and get into my go for it mind. It took a lot of work and by the days end I was tired. After a day’s rest we were back at the Cathedral and after a few days of climbing there I had found my groove. I made an ascent of a 13 called Holbytla that proved to be quite a little battle and a great learning experience. Around the 7th bolt there is about 15 to 20 feet of a boulder problem on steep, sloping pockets. Nothing felt positive, nothing felt solid. Skipping the crux clip I took fall after fall. The cold was causing my hands to numb out up there and I realized that I wasn’t really pumping off but more just letting go. I needed to just hold on and keep moving, not let go. I wanted the holds to be better but they weren’t. I needed to accept the route for what it was and adjust myself to it. I needed to just go for it to keep moving upwards with no doubt or hesitation. After realizing this I was clipping the anchors and feeling like I had learned a valuable lesson in rock climbing. Using my new-found spread out, hang on and go for it approach I made an ascent of a really stellar 13b called Resurrection a couple of days later. I think I could have stayed out there indefinitely but once again the temps were dipping and it was time for us to head out.

Conditions wouldn’t be so harsh at the VRG Ben informed me. My heart sank a little but I knew it was inevitable that we would be going back there. I readied myself for the traumatic experience. I told myself that the freeway actually sounded like waves breaking on shore. I hoped this would inspire me. I tried hard, I pulled hard, I crimped hard. I used the power I had found at the Cathedral to fuel me. It worked for a while. But after 6 pitches and considering going back up on the epic Fall of Man I just couldn’t muster an ounce more of psyche. I was over it and lapsed into unmotivation and started to beat myself up about it all over again.
I really wanted to like this place, I wanted to try hard in the face of failure, I wanted to push myself to new levels of inspiration but I was struggling. The road noise, the shade, the cold rock, the overhanging wall with its huge reaches and slimy holds were all overwhelming me. I was losing my power. Once again the sun set and we could leave. I walked back to the car, crossing under the bridge to hell with my head hung low. I felt like I had failed in some way. I felt like I had let myself down by not pulling through and maintaining a positive outlook. Back in the hotel I turned on the TV and tried to push aside all thoughts of climbing. The channels were filled with things like Real Housewives of Atlanta, Lady Hoggers, Millionaire Matchmaker and terrible news programs. I searched the channels for inspiration and I wondered what the hell was wrong with us people? What is it that we are doing with ourselves, to ourselves and to the world? I came to the understanding that I should be inspired by the simple fact that I have the opportunity to go rock climbing, that I have the choice to be free in myself and enjoy the act of moving over stone.

Back at the VRG the wind whipped against the rock, the cars rumbled below. My body felt stiff and my mind tired. In the warmth of the hotel room finding inspiration seemed easy, out here I was going to have to dig deep, to think about being thankful for the day, thankful for climbing. I would let the rock inspire me. I tried hard. The warm ups felt hard, I felt less than good. It would be a practice day – I would use it as an opportunity to do moves, hold onto holds and enjoy the process of doing that. I tried Fall of Man a couple of times with no expectations, just practice. I did better than I thought I might do. I made it to a new high point past the crux before faltering and just missing a crimp with the left. I fell and I lowered. Looking back on that I know that I stood in the way of myself. I had stopped myself from doing the move, from grabbing that hold. I realize that still in me after all the red-points and onsights that I still carry a fair amount of doubt. After the lesson I thought I had learned at the Cathedral I still hesitated. While reaching up for that hold I didn’t believe enough that I could do it, that it was ok to grab it.

We left the VRG in the cold of the late evening and headed back to Bishop. I was bummed to leave with unfinished business. After all the dis-ease and dislike I had I found myself almost begging Ben to let us stay just one more day in the hopes of getting to climb Fall of Man one more time, but the temps were too frigid to climb anymore and it was clear that we should head home. On the drive back I thought about Jerry Moffat, I had just finished reading his autobiography and the take home message I got is that if you want something then you go for it 100%, with no doubt, no hesitation, with only positivity and inspiration. Back here in the warmth of our house in Bishop I’m using my new inspiration. We will return to the VRG in the next months I’m sure and I will let myself do Fall of Man then but in the mean time I’m climbing with more purpose than ever – I’m going to go for it 100% with no hesitation and no doubt, with positivity and inspiration.

Jordan, Part Three

2011-11-29T12:50:00.001-08:00

by Chris Thomas
For part one: http://mammutathleteteam.blogspot.com/2011/08/wadi-rum-jordan-part-one.html
For part two: http://mammutathleteteam.blogspot.com/2011/11/jordan-part-two.html

Petra and Wadi Musa were really cool to see, but I was definitely ready to get back to Wadi Rum for some more climbing. The routes we had done so far could be accessed from a camp in the village. But to truly experience the wide expanse and desolation of the desert we wanted to get off the beaten path a little more.

I wandered around the village until I found a local Bedouin who agreed to drive us into Barragh Canyon. Mohammed was super friendly and a total expert on the area.

Loading up the truck with water, food, camping and climbing gear for a couple of days.

It was pretty amazing what this truck could do - we got stuck in deep sand a couple of times, but as soon as our driver slipped it into 4WD we'd creep through it, even up and over tall dunes.

An incredible overhanging wall estimated to be about 70 meters tall. Talk about new route potential...

With so many stunning walls and possibilities for routes, we had a hard time deciding on where to camp. Mohammed patiently waits while we consult the map yet again

Merlin's Wand, a classic 5.10 watergroove and crack climb. It's about 6 or 7 pitches long and has some of the best rock we climbed on in Jordan. We set up camp directly below this incredible feature.

Ryan on the first pitch of Merlin's Wand.

A seemingly idyllic camp site - hardly the case!

We split into two teams - Andy and I sharing a rope, and Ryan and Nathan coming up behind us. The climbing reminded me a lot of Red Rocks - great hand jams and finger locks, but face holds for your feet. Perfect. The climbing was certainly steep, but with such user-friendly locks and jugs the grade is very moderate. It didn't take Andy and I long - we topped out in just a couple of hours.

After rapping back to the base, we still had about 60 minutes of light left. Not content to waste the opportunity to take another lap on such a classic route, I immediately started back up, solo. I dragged a rope behind me, planning to rap when I topped out or ran out of light.

After getting the rope stuck while rapping, twice, and having to re-solo pitches to get it back, I got down just after dark. I watched an amazing sunset while descending, but couldn't help noticing the demonicly dark clouds forming to the east, toward the Saudi border.

Within less than 10 minutes of arriving back on the ground, a light drizzle started. It quickly developed into a full-on thunderstorm, with rain so heavy we had to yell just to hear each other. It was pitch black, except for when the intense lightning lit up the canyon so brightly it felt like daylight.

I was thinking about how lucky I was to have not wasted any more time in getting down - just a few minutes ago I was on the route and would have gotten drenched.

While pondering how uncomfortable that would have been, an incredible crashing noise quickly got our attention and we ran out of our tents into the storm. Just a few feet away, the route I had just soloed had become a raging waterfall to rival anything in Yosemite - I surely would have been killed by either drowning or being flushed from the cliff had I been just a couple more minutes late. The entire upper dome of rock, countless acres, funnled the collected water into the Merlin's Wand water groove. Within seconds our camp flash flooded, soaking our tents and washing away some of our gear that was still sitting outside. We grabbed everything we could and ran like hell to higher ground, having to reposition ourselves a couple of times as the lake where our camp had been grew.

We had been joking the whole trip about more people die of drowning in the desert than thirst, but really had no idea how true that statement was. We, and especially I, were incredibly lucky and this is a lesson that won't quickly be forgotten!

Just as qucikly as the storm came in, we were with left in a stunning starry sky. Although the waterfalls raged for most of the night, in the morning it was sunny and warm, a very welcomed change. We treated ourselves to a lazy morning to let things dry out a little, and then went off exploring for more great rock climbs. Above, you can see me climbing in a red shirt in the lower left corner.

We only had time for a couple of pitches - after the rock dried there were only a few hours before our driver came to pick us up. We stopped on the way back to the village to chck out some rock art, left by ancient caravaning tribesmen, many of whom were on their way to Mecca.

Next day: time for one more route. Andy I climed Catfish Corner, a great 5.11ish finger crack.

Making our way back north to Amman.

We stopped along the way to check out Karak, a castle built by Crusaders several hunded years ago, the Dead Sea, Mt. Nebo, and Madaba

Hitting the shisha after a meal of Schawarma. Not a bad way to finish up the trip!

25 hours of airplane time was all that seperated me from home, my lovely girlfriend, taco carts, and margaritas. Jordan was great, but it felt really good to be going home too!

Jordan was without a doubt a trip I'll remember for the rest of my life. Many thanks to Mammut for all of the support!

Thanks for reading,
Chris Thomas

Jordan, Part Two

2011-11-29T12:39:00.000-08:00

By Chris Thomas
For Part One, see: http://mammutathleteteam.blogspot.com/2011/08/wadi-rum-jordan-part-one.html

After a couple of hot days in the blistering sun and blowing sand, we were due for a rest day. Besides, I was still shaking from my run in with that snake near the top of Lion Heart. Close call!
A big part of the appeal of going to Jordan in the first place was to check out some of the amazing, and ancient, cultural destinations, so it wasn't too painful to leave Wadi Rum for a little while and go into tourist mode.

We drove a few hours north, gaining several thousand feet of elevation, to the village of Wadi Musa. Wadi Musa is the staging point for a hike into Petra, a spectacular ancient city carved into stone. Although it was ruled by many different regimes, the first buildings were built by the Nabataeans in about 600 BC. A visit is on the BBC's "top 40 must see before you die" list, and for good reason.

The busy village of Wadi Musa

After a 30 minute walk through the Siq (slot canyon), your first glimpse of Petra is without a doubt the most spectacular. This building is called Al Khaznah (The Treasury), and was featured in one of the Indian Jones movies.

Check out the hand and foot holds carved into the sandstone on either side of the building, presumably to help the sculptors

Petra's version of the Coliseum

After several miles of steep walking, just when you think you've passed the last building of the city (there are several hundred), you're greeted with an amazing view of the Monastery, on par with The Treasury in it's breadth, position, and unbelievable detail.

Sight seeing in Petra was supposed to be a rest day - but our legs were worked! Totally worth it, obviously, but we definitely felt like we earned our feast of shishkabobs and beer that day!

Coming up: part 3. Back to Wadi Rum. A backcountry trip to Barragh Canyon and Catfish Corner for more great climbing.

Thanks for reading,
Chris Thomas

Hello, Terradets!

2011-11-22T03:36:00.000-08:00

Landscape changing dramatically on the drive north from Margalef toward Terradets on Spain's C13

Arriving at a parking area for Terradets

One of the many climber-friendly conveniences of Terradets: a real supermarket with about 15 minutes of the camping and refugio

Climbers approaching through a tunnel

Context

Views of Andorra's distant peaks with a coating of fresh snow from last night's storm

View from the hotel lounge in which I'm posting

Last from Margalef

2011-11-22T03:19:00.001-08:00

Belaying David on a 7b+ at Finestra

Hiking up to Espedelles

A view of Espedelles

A random guy climbing at Espedelles

Sneaking in a lunch before hiking down (in front of a massive rain storm)

Trude inspecting our solution to a leaky tent situation... (which turned out to be a condensation distillery and no solution at all)

Check it out!

2011-11-14T05:21:00.001-08:00

If your looking for some entertainment, please check this flick and mag article I was involved in. Good Stuff.

Powder Magazine, Nov. 2011

Sweetgrass Productions

Erica laidlaw

Margalef

2011-11-12T05:06:00.001-08:00

A photo opp en route from Siurana to Margalef on the C242.

Pulling into Margalef

Even the trees are overhanging.

Walking through the "streets" of Margalef

Potable water in town

A view of (some of) Roco de Finestra

A close-up of a mono

Our strange camping arrangement

Steve sprinting for the chains on a 7c

Phil climbing into the sun on Bloc del Porc

Trude warming up in the sun on Bloc del Porc

Many abandoned buildings in Margalef

Chairs enjoying the view

Farewell, Siurana.

2011-11-12T03:17:00.001-08:00

We spent a total of 10 or so days in Siruana, many of which were characterized by heavy, heavy rain. Though the weather got better, some of friends were excited to move on and check out some other areas. So we decided to follow and check out Margalef, about 45 minutes away.

Here are some photos from our days in Siurana, including the rain, the historic village of Siurana, and of a cliff (Siuranella Central).

2011-11-11T06:14:00.001-08:00

Greetings all, I hope everyone is having a killer fall. I’ve been hunkered down here in New Englandplaying the weekend warrior and slowly stockpiling time off in hopes of somegood winter trips. I’ve had the chanceto share some excellent weekends with good friends throughout New Hampshire andMaine. Rumney can be hard to beat thistime of year and if anyone makes it East you HAVE to hit up Shagg Crag inMaine. Perfect picturesque setting andsome of the most unique granite I have ever climbed on!

Jen stylin' Bottom Feeder 13a

Tim attempting Cold War 14a

The Shagg classic Ginseng 12c

It wouldn’t be a good New England fall without a little rainand snow and we have definitely seen both. I’ve spent a few wet days cleaning and equipping some really coollooking new lines at one of our best winter ice and mixed climbing spots, SnakeMountain. I’m especially psyched on onein particular that will climb four sections of steep ice, three large rockroofs and finish on a super solid 30ft free hanger. Gonna be good!!

A crappy shot of cool work in progress, Snake Mountain

During the cold days we have made the trek north over theborder to one of my favorite early winter training areas in Saint AlbanQuebec. The place is the perfect placeto work out on your tools and get ready for winter. The place is STEEP, 40 some routes for all abilities;faces, roofs, caves, and a solid crew of locals who are some of the nicest andstrongest folks around! Whether you wantto get ready for your first ice climb or are training for competition this isthe place. Last week I added a great newlink-up of Petit Victor M10 and Eos M9+ for some solid extra pump andspent some time replacing some aging fixed gear on some of the classic routes. Big thanks to local crankers Patrick andMartin for the great psych and beta, stoked to check out your new routes thiswinter!!

The popular Secteur La Guignolee, Saint Alban, Quebec. Vincent on Hysterie M9-

Nightlife, Saint Alban

Be well everyone!

Josh Worley -Burlington, VT

Greetings from Siurana

2011-11-02T06:54:00.000-07:00

Despite a terrible weather forecast, we decided to accept the long drive and extra costs to head south into Spain to try and find some sunny sport climbing in Siruana.

Actually, we've had much better weather than expected, and have just climbed three days in a row... out of fear of missing a good weather day (given the perpetually threatening forecast).

Though it's definitely climbable weather today, we're taking a rest day. We're starting to get the feeling that, though the forecast always looks pretty dismal, the weather here usually seems to be a bit better than predicted.

Unfortunately, the internet here is terribly slow for uploading images, so I'll have to put some more up later (when I get to Sweden in December, perhaps).

Farewell, Fontainebleau. Hello (somewhere in) Spain!

2011-10-27T13:37:00.000-07:00

We've had nearly three weeks of bouldering here in Fontainebleau, France. Our gite rental is nearly over, and our friends almost gone. So tomorrow we leave for somewhere in Spain.

We're not sure exactly where we're headed yet, as the weather everywhere in Catalonia seems to have a pretty dismal forecast.

Anyway, we'll be on the road all day tomorrow, hopefully arriving in the Barcelona area sometime before midnight.

Autumn descends on France.

"Cozy" riding conditions on the way to bouldering. (Four people, four pads, and bags in a small Toyota sedan)

Serious topouts for serious people

Simulclimbing in Font

Jakob getting revenge on a really nice 7a in 95.2

Our street in the morning

Parking at Franchard Isatis is sweet.

David initiating the send train on a crimpy 7a in Franchard Isatis (Plan 3)

Franchard Isaatis

David sending a 7b+ problem in Franchard Isatis (Plan 3)

David giving Duel (an 8a SLAB!!!) a good go at the end of our trip.

Red River Gorge

2011-10-27T08:13:00.001-07:00

We've been in the Red for almost two weeks now and it's just as amazing as I'd remembered it. The fall leaves are in full colour, and the air is crisp and clear (for the most part). One can see why this place has become one of the most popular destinations in North America for fall sport climbing. The routes are steep, well-featured and varied. We've noticed a more international crowd here than in the past. I guess the secret is out and the Europeans are making the journey across the pond.

The iconic Miguel's Pizza. Ground zero for Red River Gorge sport climbing.

Amarillo Sunset (11a) at North 40. A beautiful line.

Buddha Hole (11d) at the Solar Collector.

I think the stone here is some of the prettiest I've seen, and the various holes, tubes, layers and colours constantly amaze me.

The climbing, as always, is spectacular. Our hands glow red at the end of the day from the harsh texture, but that's nothing a rest day (or two) won't cure.

Paradise Lost (13a/b) at Purgatory.

Shiva (13b) at Midnight Surf.

Supafly (12a) at the Solar Collector.

Samurai (12b) at North 40. Not your typical overhanging endurance fest.

The steepness of the cliffs here is what makes this place truly unique. In very few places have I seen such long overhangs that feature enough holds to make them climbable.

New project in the cave right of Drive-By crag. Steep...

The Undertow Wall at the Motherlode. Quite possibly the best sport crag in the U.S.

Kaleidoscope (13c) at Drive-By Crag. The striking line up an overhanging arete sees plenty of traffic.

The opening moves on Dirty Smelly Hippie (13b) at Drive-By.

Easy Rider (13a) at Drive-By. Yes, that's a prosthetic leg, and he hiked the route...

If you come in the fall, check out the horse races at Keenland or the Kentucky Horse Park north of Lexington. Horse farming is a big part of Kentucky culture.

The hiking is amazing in the fall. Sandstone arches litter the forest and the trails are covered in fallen leaves.

When you plan your trip to the Red River Gorge, make sure to book accommodation early (unless you plan to camp). The cabins and cottages fill up very fast - some are booked up to a year in advance. Springtime is also an incredible time to visit, but the weather can be a little more unpredictable and you won't get the fall colours. Either way, it's hard to go wrong.

Enjoy the fall!
Marc Bourdon - Squamish, BC

Photos from Font

2011-10-24T10:05:00.000-07:00

We've just polished off two weeks here in Fontainebleau. Our only guidebook is the 7 + 8 Straight-ups, so I have no idea what most of the problems we've done are even called... Which I think is better anyway, as all of them (even the warm-ups) seem really hard anyhow in this technical wonderland, and most all of them cool. In an area with this much rock and this many amazing problems, it seems like a real waste of time and opportunity to run around with a guidebook in hand, looking for a few problems. Or at least on your first trip here, as is my case.

A classic Font topout

The solution for the topout. (Notice: the climber is already on the rock.)

Our street in Avon.

One of the gite owners' cats checking out our stuff in the morning.

Swedes and technology

A classic and fun face problem in Isatis

Johan trying a 7a in Isatis.

Another fun and high problem in Isatis whose name I don't know...

French countryside

Bozeman's Boulders

2011-10-18T15:12:00.000-07:00

My business Stronghold Fabrication has completed a six year project this fall. Bozeman is home to 6 in- town boulders that were strategically spaced throughout the city's parks. All the parks are connected with a bike trail so one can tour and climb all day. It has been an honor to work with all those involved.

Bozeman can now boast that it has more boulders within city limits than any other city in the country. It's bring worlds of climbing to everyone, especially the kids!

Here they are:

The Bozeman Pond Park

The North Side Train Depot Park
East Gallatin Recreation Park

The Regional Park

The Regional Park (Kiddie Boulder)

Whit Magro

Bonjour from Fontainebleau!

2011-10-15T05:04:00.000-07:00

The stairs of our gite (in a picture that uploaded at the wrong angle)

Swedes love sausage and potatoes.

It was raining, but we were going to climb (in Bas Cuvier).
Climbing is a team effort, especially if you have matching pants.

A rather classic Font topout in the area 95.2.

David does tricks.

Staging for climbing outside the gite in Avon

Following "Ingrid," our GPS unit.

David trying the "pure" jumpstart to this problem in Bas Cuvier, sans crashpad.

Boulders, boulders all around (in Bas Cuvier)

Andreas falling from Super Prestat

The castle in Fontainebleau

Fontainebleau

Me taking a coffee in the town of Fontainebleau

When in France...

Morning coffee and stress balls outside the gite

Swedes like baguettes.

Swedes like coffee.

David sending a classic 7a in Franchard Cusinier

Peace Out, Montana. Hello, France, Spain, Sweden, Turkey, ...?

2011-10-06T14:37:00.001-07:00

Well, the time has come again to hit the road.

I leave Bozeman tomorrow morning and hope to arrive in Fontainebleau, France about 24 hours after leaving my house.

Next time I log in for a post, it will probably be in the back corner of some French McDonald's. Unless Fontainebleau is too snobby for McDonald's.

Peace Out, Sweden!

2011-09-25T11:29:00.001-07:00

It was a great two months in Sweden for me. Lots and lots of (writing) work and (flood-causing) rain -but also as much training, and some climbing outside.

Below are some photos of the last climbing days there.

En route from Karlstad to Filipstad, to climb at a cliff called Hämtjärn.

Me packing carelessly for the 15 meter approach.

Me taking a top-rope exploration of a climb called Jesus, din Räddning (7c+)

David on his then unsent project, Hästkanonen (The Horse Cannon). He needed to move a few bolts before he would send it.

Hästkanonen

Stephan attempting to send Jesus, din Räddning

We saw too much of this during the summer...

Sweden, birth place of IKEA

Preparing to move two bolts and replace the anchor on Hästkanonen

A route that I did on this trip, Pluttan (7b)

Skårepumpen: the gym where we lifted during the summer

Danger

Bouldering in Färjestad, another local bouldering area with vertical, spread-out problems

David doing the FA of a new problem (V8 or so)

David getting ready to send The Horse Cannon with the new bolts.

Below is a movie David made about the final day I had in Sweden, also our final climbing day there together for the summer. (David has since been back to bolt some new lines.)

Sublime Sending Summer

2011-09-23T16:30:00.000-07:00

It’s the Fall Equinox and by all rights the summer should be over, but temps reaching higher than 100 degrees are telling me otherwise. The heat has me uninspired to climb although my body is craving the physical exertion; so, to make myself feel more at ease I will revel in my summer’s sends. After our July efforts on Leaning Tower we headed to higher ground. We headed to Tuolumne – where the water was ice cold and the rock climbs kept our tips numb. The season up there is limited and so I try to have some specific goals so I don’t find myself too idle. A few years back when I was climbing on “Peace” I was intrigued by a route to the right named “Golden Rose.” I had tried it once that summer and found it to be quite hard, quite thin and quite reachy. But, when this summer season started up there I found myself wanting to give it a good going over. I was lucky in that a few friends were interested in doing Peace and so I would have partners to hike up to Medlicott with and give a belay. My first time up the route this season confirmed my thoughts about it from the past – it was extremely thin, it had long move after long move and felt incredibly sustained but it also felt very doable. I wanted more of it. After a few days effort on the route I was psyched to make the first female ascent of this classic Ron Kauk line.

Golden Rose 5.13c

My fire was stoked and went after another project of mine that has lasted me three summers – The Steel Fingers Traverse. It’s rated V8 but I want to give it a personal grade of V10 – but I don’t guess that would be right so I’ll humbly stick to what the Tuolumne Rock Gods have given it. It’s a 40 foot traverse that goes through a series of slopers, crimps, heel hooks, horizontals, underpalms and cracks. The typical beta at the start of the crux is to get a left heel, toe and lock off to a sloper crimp above the roof. This works great for those that are 5’8″ and taller but for us shorties it a whole different game. The reason this traverse has taken me so long is because of this move – I needed to find a different way and I did. It involves an undercling pinch, super high feet and a pop out the roof. Ok, hard move but I could do this move almost every time, the issue then became being able to do the move while holding the pump from the 15 or so feet into it and then holding on for all that came after it. I worked it, worked it, worked it. I had it down in a few sections, then I had it down to two sections – all the moves into the pop then all the moves from the pop to the end. But, damn it! I kept putting my foot down when I would go for the move – I realized that I was having a mental game with myself. I was thinking that I couldn’t do it, that it was too hard for me to do it all and I was holding myself back, I wasn’t letting myself succeed. I needed to break through, to change the thought pattern. So, I started doing it from just a few moves before sometimes I would succeed, mostly I wouldn’t. Then I would just start doing that move to the end over and over again, with a fierce pump. This showed me I could hold on, I had the power to do so. On the day that I red-pointed Golden Rose I tried to send Steel Fingers. I thought that the psyche from the mornings accomplishment would have me stoked. I didn’t do it, but I came really close. A couple days later after a good rest and some pep talks from both Ben and Ron I knew it was time. I warmed up and then arranged the pads as needed. I fired it first go that day! I had surprised myself when I stuck “the move.” I had to real my thoughts back in and keep it together for the rest of the traverse, for there are a few more cruxes before the end. As I reached the last hold and then stepped down off the problem I had not only just made another first female ascent but I had personally come through a transformation.

Steel Fingers Traverse

This had all happened just in time for the next week Ben Ditto, Jon Gleason, Eric Ruderman and I headed to the Needles for a ten day stint of secluded, low commitment multipitching. In our time there we got in a little over 36 miles of hiking and about 36 pitches of climbing. It’s a magical place there at the southern end of the Sierra. The granite is splitter and grippy and the pro can be plentiful and solid to sparse and sketchy. From the late 60′s to the early 90′s is when most of the climbing was put up at the Needles. In 1969 Fred Becky made the first ascent there and in the years to follow it would be only a handful of hard men and women putting up FA’s. When I first caught wind of the Needles it was the 90′s. The electric green lichen of the place suited the style of the era and the glossy pages of the climbing mags were adorned with lycra, runouts on thin flakes and mystical sounding names of formations like The Warlock and The Sorcerer. Master’s of Stone had Ron Kauk and DanO moving through the landscape as if a playground. In our ten days there we saw that playground shut down more parties of climbers than not on the humbling experiences of cracks that tapper out to descents up talus filled gullies to the 3 mile hike out. We saw more people leave early, almost fleeing with fear than on the summits of those five fingers of rock.

Many of the climbs seem to have been left in the past. The upfront classics dominate the scene and only the Peregrines can be found on such climbs as the Nautilus. Aside from the bugs, birds and chipmunks our wildlife encounters – much like the gear – was sparse despite being at 7000 feet and in the thick forest of the Sierra. There were no deer, no bear and no cougar and I could only deduce that since the Central Valley with it’s millions of people and agricultural pollution rest only 50 miles away that the animals have moved to less polluted more safe environs.

We ticked off some classics like the Don Juan Wall, Atlantis, and Fancy Free to name a few. Gave a go at things like Pyromania and Titanic and on our last day there Ben and I made an ascent of Romantic Warrior. Through the years I had heard stories of this climb – how bad the pro was, how hard and awkward the cruxes were, how beautiful the line was, how good the climbing was, how shut down people had been on it and on and on. But, somehow this climb was not so bad for us. Perhaps it’s that we came from Yosemite where the runouts can be long, the pro can be funky, and the rock just as chossy as it is solid. And perhaps it’s that in our quiver we have enough experience to go up something like this and come out on top. Whatever the reason for the send on this amazing and elegant line I am thankful, for it was a highlight of the trip and a highlight in my climbing career.

5.12a traverse on Romantic Warrior(5.12b)

As I wrap up this tale of a sublime, sending summer thunder clouds gather above Yosemite Valley. The threat of rain brings with it some cooler temps and hopefully the promise of Fall – for there is still much to climb and explore!

all photos credit to ben ditto

Just bloggin

2011-09-12T14:26:00.000-07:00

It been exciting and sad this summer.....

Back on the 22 of June my daughter was born happy and healthy. We called her Mya. It's been a busy and fun adjustment now that we have two but we are getting the hang of it. We spent some time in Idaho's City of Rocks camping with some friends and climbing over the forth.

Some of the rug rats....

Just over the hill in Wyoming.

I have been working on this 200 meter rock climb. I think I am going to call it 10,000 steps. It ascends the right system of the two in the photo, it's very exciting climbing on perfect granite. The one on the left is called Directisimo 5.13. The current project is a bit harder. To be continued......

On a more sad note I lost a very good friend Bean Bowers to cancer this summer, he will be missed.

Bean and I in the Black just last fall. A poor photo but it's all I have

Lets all keep on living large for Bean!

Whit

Bozeman, MT.

Summer at Acephale

2011-08-22T19:03:00.001-07:00

Once again, we decided to spend time climbing in the Canadian Rockies during the summer. With heatwaves blasting the middle of the continent, the decision seemed easy. High elevation cliffs with lots of north-facing aspects provide great conditions for mid-summer, and the area is beautiful to boot!

A view looking east toward Calgary along the Bow Valley. The outskirts of Canmore can be seen in the lower left of the photo.

Besides climbing, we've spent lots of time hiking and exploring the valleys and forests. There's so much to do! This is the Tower of Babel near Moraine Lake. It's a popular multi-pitch or scrambling objective on hardened quartzite.

Glacier above Consolation Lake.

Moraine Lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks in behind. This region is very close to Lake Louise, home to excellent cragging at the "Back of the Lake".

There's no shortage of wildlife.

Around Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, grizzly bears can be a problem. Groups of four are required for many hiking objectives, and this is strictly enforced.

We've spent much of our time climbing at the Upper Wall at Acephale. The wall is about a 10-minute drive from Canmore and a 45-minute, pleasant uphill hike. It's entirely north facing so sun is never a concern. In fact, we've lit a fire twice at the crag to keep warm on windy days. In August, no less! This is a local climber, Kat, on the super popular 12d, Jingus Americanus. The overhanging stone provides intricate and bouldery routes.

Another local, Joel, on a route at the far right end of the crag, an area dubbed "The Pavement" for it's smooth, super-compact nature. This is "Cochon Grochon, a very bouldery 5.13b. The climbing at this end of the cliff is not nearly as steep as in the middle.

Derek Galloway, author of Bow Valley Sport, working a new project right of "Existence Mundane" (5.14b). It will likely be in the same ballpark, grade-wise.

We've been here throughout the month of August and the wildflowers are in full bloom. This is Indian paintbrush, a common local plant.

Columbine.

This peak is known as "Ha-Ling" and it's a giant that towers over the town of Canmore. There are a multitude of popular traditional climbing routes (and one huge sport route) that breach the main wall, but the most popular way to reach the summit is up the backside trail. It's a big climb (over 2,ooo feet), but the locals seem to love it.

View from the summit.

Fossils by the trail.

Don't throw rocks onto the climbers below!!!!!

Hiking off the summit.

A pika. These little creatures are common amongst the rocks. The look like little rabbits.

The Banff Springs hotel. Shot taken from Sulphur Mountain, above Banff. If you want to stay here, bring your platinum card!

There is climbing for all abilities around Banff and Canmore. Here is our daughter Elise, five years old, climbing a bolted 5.6 at Grassi Lakes. The wall is called "The Golf Course" for it's plethora of holes. It's perfect for beginners and kids!

Pictographs at Grassi Lakes.

Back at the Upper Wall of Acephale. This is Tony, a local climber on Sweet Thing (5.13b/c). This route is awesome and takes a bulging blue streaked wall up the middle of the cliffband. Bring your bouldering skills, and some endurance!

The crux bulge on Whale Back (5.13c), considered by many to be the best route of the grade at the wall. Powerful crossovers in pockets and holes lead to a desperate, slopey sequence mantling onto the "whale back" feature near the top. Wolfgang, shown here, hiked it!

If Whale Back seems too easy, try the most popular 5.13d at the crag, Endless Summer. Bouldery moves through a steep bulge lead to an immaculate headwall on blue streaked stone.

Acephale is a destination crag, but there's not much here sub 5.11+. If you do come and are looking for excellent routes in the 5.10 to 5.11 grade, I'd highly recommend both the crags at the back of Lake Louise, Carrot Creek (always shady) and the new cliffs in Echo Canyon. This area has the goods, and is a great place to beat the summer heat!

Marc Bourdon - Squamish, BC

Training, Working, Climbing, Training, Working, Climbing

2011-08-22T08:30:00.001-07:00

Life continues to roll by here in Sweden. Because David and I are both quite busy working, we've been spending most of our time in town... but we've been pretty happy about that, too, as being in town means we also have a bed, shower, climbing gym, "regular" gym, refrigerator, and such.

Here are some photos of this all...

David's work: Magazinet Sport.

Bench pressing at the neighborhood gym, Skårepumpen.

More bouldering at Dye (in Karlstad).

Trying to find the good part of this bad sloper

David and a friend spent five hours moving a 300+ kg stone away from this boulder in order to add extensions to many of Dye's better problems.

David re-sending some of these problems with the new extensions.

Swedish muffins with wild-picked lingon berries.

Back in Skårepumpen.

David working on the complete Dye traverse, a 65-move project.

Toward the end of that traverse.

Me working on a climb called Sälen.

David working on yet another problem made possible by the removal of the 300kg block.

Sport climbing in Byn, about an hour west of Karlstad.

Sweden's West Coast: A Wedding and Extracurricular Climbing

2011-08-12T01:50:00.001-07:00

Last weekend we went to a family wedding on the West Coast of Sweden, in Stenungsund. The wedding took place on Saturday afternoon, so we managed to fit in some sport climbing on Saturday morning, as well as a short bouldering tour on Sunday.

Sport climbing near Stenungsund. A very fun, though short, schist cliff.

View looking out from the cliff

The site of the wedding

View from the reception hall

Fisher cabins on the shore

The newly-wed bride and groom arrived by boat.

Post-wedding Sunday: Jakob, David's cousin, takes us on a tour of his local bouldering haunts. Though small, this cliff band had quite a lot of excellent problems!

Mammut - The Anniversary Basecamp Event

2011-08-06T05:03:00.000-07:00

The Mammut Anniversary Basecamp kick off event was a fantastic experience from the beginning to end. I attended the event with over 100 journalists, mountain guides, and Mammut staff in the Jungfrau Region of Switzerland this past week to celebrate Mammut's 150th year in operation. From start to finnish the event was non stop. Groups climbed the Jungfrau and the Monch peaks, we attended workshops, and were treated to excellent Swiss cuisine each day. From the photos you can see that Mammut went all out to make this event one that will be remembered for years to come.

The general area known as the Top of Europe for the Anniversary Basecamp Event.

The North face of the Eiger in wet conditions.

Mammut's CEO Rolf Schmid giving the opening speech for the event.

Live music, food and drinks on a sunny afternoon below the Eiger.

Mountain guides in period gear - ready to climb the Jungfrau the following day.

The window looking out onto the Eiger North Wall.

Take a good look at the entire base camp to the lower left of the peak.

The massive basecamp with over 150 Hilleberg tents, a first aid tent, two large Igloo style tents for the meals and lectures.

The lecture Igloo with seats covered in sheepskin.

IFMGA guide Clint Cook checking out the new tent.

The celebration would not be complete without a cake.

Here I am with Tracy the designer for the new 150 peaks jacket.

Great weather and conditions on the Monch.

Thanks to Mammut for this amazing experience - it was an honor to be one of three mountain guides to represent the US.

Art Mooney

Wadi Rum, Jordan, Part One

2011-08-02T08:07:00.000-07:00

by Chris Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT to Amman, Jordan
I thought it was pretty funny, and I guess a little disturbing, when I handed the TSA agent my boarding pass. She looked at the pass, looked at me like I was crazy, then recommended I seriously reconsider my travel destination. "Do you know how dangerous it is to be in the Middle East right now?" she asked. I smiled, took the boarding pass back from her, and kept walking through security.
In the weeks leading up to my trip several friends, family members, and co-workers called and emailed to express dire concern about my visiting the Middle East in such a turbulent time. Although I thanked them for their advice, the ticket had been purchased, my heart was set on going, and despite recent protests in Amman, I truly believed that given some basic precautions and common sense everything would go off without a hitch.

A long non-stop flight from SLC to Paris, a quick layover, another flight to Amman and I was on my way

Wadi Rum is just north of Aqabah

Amman to Wadi Rum

I joined up with my friends at the airport. After a short rest in a crappy hotel in Amman, we made our way south, towards the Red Sea, and into the heart of Wadi Rum
Picturesque mosque in the village of Wadi Rum

Finally, climbing

First on the hit list was a great warm up climb, Beauty, on the Jebel Ishrin formation

Typical Wadi Rum approach - scrambling and slot canyons

Beauty, Jebel Ishrin

Most of the route was casual finger and hand cracks, with a little bit of spicy face climbing thrown in for good measure

The last technical pitch, a steep offwidth, proved to be the crux. Although my partner Andy had insisted that we bring big cams, I assumed the climbing would be easy and I was too stubborn to bring up the offwidth pieces. At the base of this pitch I realized my mistake and paid for it by having to solo the whole pitch with no gear. It was sporty!

On top of Jebel Ishrin. The endless desert in the background stretches to the Saudi Arabian border to the east

Local Bedouins jockeying the camel train

After a couple other short routes on Ishrin, and a long day of sweating it out in the hot sun, we got back in the van for some A/C time and a field trip to the ancient city of Aqabah. Looking out across the Red Sea, we could see into Israel and Egypt

Next up was an incredible route on the Abu Aina tower called Lionheart. This route could easily be called the Astroman of Wadi Rum. Steep, continuous crack climbing up a huge tower on perfect black varnished rock, it was defintiely one of the best routes we did in Jordan

Near the top of the tower, I nearly pitched off from 50 feet above the belay with no gear in. As I reached over head and slotted my finger into a perfect lock, a flourescent green snake poked it's head out of the crack less than an inch from my hand. It looked me in the eye, stuck it's forked tongue out at me, and then slithered off further up the crack. Shaking and cursing at the top of my lungs from both the fear of a snake bite and cratering onto the belay ledge, I gingerly plugged in some gear and finished the pitch, face climbing as far away from the crack as possible. Close call!!!

Typical rap anchor

Making the trek back into the village for some much needed shawarma and infidel juice (beer)

Coming soon: part two. A side trip to Petra, a backcountry trip to Barragh canyon, and lots more climbing

Chris Thomas

Missingmyr, Norway: Climbing + Swimming

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On Saturday we drove west into Norway for a 1.5-day climbing trip in Missingmyr. Even though we only had 30 hours, we still managed to climb two nearly full days of climbing, as well as swim in the ocean and some Norwegian Yatzee. Thanks, of course, to the long Scandinavian summer days.

Norwegian landscape.

Hiking into Missingmyr; note the cliff band, visible through the trees.

The brown pony was PSYCHED.

The crag of Missingmyr: densely packed with high-quality routes.

Per toproping a cool and sustained Scan 7-.

View over the farms from the cliff.

Tent envy.

Preparing for some Norwegian Yatzee.

Apparently it looked like I was judging.

Norwegian campground.

Norwegian coast.

The Swedish traditional fika (coffee) comes to Norway.

Norwegian leisure belaying.

Sweden!

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Iceland Express stops in Reykjavik en route to Stockholm. Note the lack of trees.

Back in Sweden!

Svenskpotatis

Into the forest to find cantarella mushrooms

Harvesting a few

Not in Utah anymore!

Picking cantarella mushrooms

Moose track

More cantarella mushrooms.

Raspberries (aka hallon).

Karlstad's local (and very good) granite bouldering spot, Dye. Even though water was running down the holds, the Swedes insisted we could climb. "No, no, no. It's amazing what chalk can do!"

Indeed we could climb!

Swimming and leisure at Vänern

Vänern, Sweden's largest lake

Back in Dye. David cleaning out the bottom of many problems. New extensions are possible after the removal of a huge block.

Classics In Dye from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

A video from David on Dye bouldering.