Farewell, Fontainebleau. Hello (somewhere in) Spain!

We've had nearly three weeks of bouldering here in Fontainebleau, France. Our gite rental is nearly over, and our friends almost gone. So tomorrow we leave for somewhere in Spain.

We're not sure exactly where we're headed yet, as the weather everywhere in Catalonia seems to have a pretty dismal forecast.

Anyway, we'll be on the road all day tomorrow, hopefully arriving in the Barcelona area sometime before midnight.

Autumn descends on France.

"Cozy" riding conditions on the way to bouldering. (Four people, four pads, and bags in a small Toyota sedan)

Serious topouts for serious people

Simulclimbing in Font

Jakob getting revenge on a really nice 7a in 95.2

Our street in the morning

Parking at Franchard Isatis is sweet.

David initiating the send train on a crimpy 7a in Franchard Isatis (Plan 3)

Franchard Isaatis

David sending a 7b+ problem in Franchard Isatis (Plan 3)

David giving Duel (an 8a SLAB!!!) a good go at the end of our trip.

Red River Gorge

We've been in the Red for almost two weeks now and it's just as amazing as I'd remembered it. The fall leaves are in full colour, and the air is crisp and clear (for the most part). One can see why this place has become one of the most popular destinations in North America for fall sport climbing. The routes are steep, well-featured and varied. We've noticed a more international crowd here than in the past. I guess the secret is out and the Europeans are making the journey across the pond.

The iconic Miguel's Pizza. Ground zero for Red River Gorge sport climbing.



Amarillo Sunset (11a) at North 40. A beautiful line.



Buddha Hole (11d) at the Solar Collector.



I think the stone here is some of the prettiest I've seen, and the various holes, tubes, layers and colours constantly amaze me.




The climbing, as always, is spectacular. Our hands glow red at the end of the day from the harsh texture, but that's nothing a rest day (or two) won't cure.

Paradise Lost (13a/b) at Purgatory.


Shiva (13b) at Midnight Surf.



Supafly (12a) at the Solar Collector.


Samurai (12b) at North 40. Not your typical overhanging endurance fest.


The steepness of the cliffs here is what makes this place truly unique. In very few places have I seen such long overhangs that feature enough holds to make them climbable.


New project in the cave right of Drive-By crag. Steep...


The Undertow Wall at the Motherlode. Quite possibly the best sport crag in the U.S.


Kaleidoscope (13c) at Drive-By Crag. The striking line up an overhanging arete sees plenty of traffic.



The opening moves on Dirty Smelly Hippie (13b) at Drive-By.


Easy Rider (13a) at Drive-By. Yes, that's a prosthetic leg, and he hiked the route...


If you come in the fall, check out the horse races at Keenland or the Kentucky Horse Park north of Lexington. Horse farming is a big part of Kentucky culture.



The hiking is amazing in the fall. Sandstone arches litter the forest and the trails are covered in fallen leaves.




When you plan your trip to the Red River Gorge, make sure to book accommodation early (unless you plan to camp). The cabins and cottages fill up very fast - some are booked up to a year in advance. Springtime is also an incredible time to visit, but the weather can be a little more unpredictable and you won't get the fall colours. Either way, it's hard to go wrong.

Enjoy the fall!
Marc Bourdon - Squamish, BC

Photos from Font

We've just polished off two weeks here in Fontainebleau. Our only guidebook is the 7 + 8 Straight-ups, so I have no idea what most of the problems we've done are even called... Which I think is better anyway, as all of them (even the warm-ups) seem really hard anyhow in this technical wonderland, and most all of them cool. In an area with this much rock and this many amazing problems, it seems like a real waste of time and opportunity to run around with a guidebook in hand, looking for a few problems. Or at least on your first trip here, as is my case.

A classic Font topout

The solution for the topout. (Notice: the climber is already on the rock.)

Our street in Avon.

One of the gite owners' cats checking out our stuff in the morning.

Swedes and technology

A classic and fun face problem in Isatis

Johan trying a 7a in Isatis.

Another fun and high problem in Isatis whose name I don't know...

French countryside

Bozeman's Boulders

My business Stronghold Fabrication has completed a six year project this fall. Bozeman is home to 6 in- town boulders that were strategically spaced throughout the city's parks. All the parks are connected with a bike trail so one can tour and climb all day. It has been an honor to work with all those involved.

Bozeman can now boast that it has more boulders within city limits than any other city in the country. It's bring worlds of climbing to everyone, especially the kids!

Here they are:


The Bozeman Pond Park

The North Side Train Depot Park
East Gallatin Recreation Park

The Regional Park

The Regional Park (Kiddie Boulder)


Whit Magro