Thursday, March 31, 2011

Icefall Lodge- Part 2

Part two continued…

Avalanche

The following day the group decides to make the lengthy trip back to the main Icefall lodge, with the news that a massive storm is on the horizon. The first flakes begin to fly as we make our final turns back to the lodge.

With the morning comes a healthy 16” serving of pow, a hearty breakfast for any powderhound. Yet, we best save room because this meal is bottomless, with more fixings on the way. We spend the day shooting photos near the lodge, as the continual snowfall, foggy conditions and avi hazard discourage us from traveling too far. Throughout the night layers of tasty snow fall.

The crew awakes to another gluttonous breakfast. The sum total of snowfall in the last two days reaches nearly 3 ft. Luckily the storm has subsided and there is a calm about the air. The sky is overcast, but the ceiling is high, well above the peaks and the visibility is sufficient. Everyone is eager to feast, as the gear room bustles with activity. The clack of boots buckling sounds like the countdown beeps in a starting gate. Time to get the game face on- the pow game face.

My pow game face:


Today is our last full day of skiing and we are hungry for some delectable skiing. With the avi danger being considerable to extreme, we choose to ski some lines in areas of old growth timber, just down valley of the lodge. The group takes great precaution in our approach. We cross major slide paths one by one, with eyes always on. We ascend through trees and over pillowed boulders, with observations constantly being noted. The guides arduously break trail ahead. Snow billows up near their hips, as they work for every forward step. The pitch begins to steepen while rocks and fallen timber stack upon each other, creating shelves and drops. We continue to weave through these obstacles, gradually nearing the top of the tree line. Finally we reach the top. Quickly skins are stripped, goggles are defogged and backpacks are strapped on. We pick partners and get to it.

As I drop in, my world turns white. A veil of crystals envelopes my upper body, while plumes of snow surge near my waist. My nose and mouth inhale these chilling flakes, cooling my breath. I feel as if I am in a suspended state of falling through clouds, as I roll over the undulating terrain. I give myself to the experience, allowing my senses to maintain my equilibrium. Fighting for total control is futile. Hoots and hollers cry out from phantom figures floating through the glades, with a trail of cold smoke in their wake.

I stop briefly to reconnect with my partner, Jimmy. We meet each other with the same ecstatic grin. “That was unbelievable, “ I say still reveling in the descent. We take a few breaths and then head down to join the others below us. The group is already putting on their skins for another lap. I drop my pack and begin to riffle through it. No time to waist.

Soon we reach the bottom again, after another divine powder line. I stand with Jimmy catching my breath when I hear a portentous cry from up the valley, “Avalanche!”

Jimmy freezes. For a moment we listen. He then relays the warning down hill, “Avalanche!”. I stare uphill, fearful of the sight to come. Soon the headwall of a powder-cloud, roughly 30ft high, appears just beyond us. Initially I hear hissing, as the airborne ice crystals crash into the vegetation. Then a deep rumbling reverberates down in my gut. I scream out, “Avalanche!” hoping the others have taken shelter further into the trees, away from the neighboring slide path. Jimmy and I stand nearly 25ft from the edge of the trees, out of harms way, as we watch the massive white beast roar past. For a instant I am stunned. I then yell down to the group, desperately hoping a rescue isn’t necessary. My pulse races as I fear for the worst. Then a cry back- all are ok. I ask for a head count. All accounted for. I take two deep breaths to relieve my nerves. Jimmy and I then descend to the others. Branches and debris litter the snow. Everyone is rattled.

After some decompressing, the group then decides to move quickly back to the lodge and out of harms way. One by one we cross the slide path, navigating around fallen trees, branches and massive clumps of snow. The debris has set up like mortar and the traverse across is fast and turbulent.

Returning to the lodge, we find Larry, head guide and Icefall lodge owner, still shoveling the roof. He had witnessed the entire event and had made the ominous call down valley that Jimmy and I had heard. All that evening the group shared stories and thoughts on the experience. Thank Zeus we eluded danger.

The next day we pack ourselves into the little aircraft and head out back to Golden, BC. As we fly, we overlook the countless massive avalanches that had occurred in the past few days. I take a sigh of relief. Time to step away from the bull’s eye, and out of firing range.



(photo by Jeremy Benson)


(photo by Jeremy Benson)


Special thanks to the Icefall Lodge crew!

cheers.

erica laidlaw

Monday, March 28, 2011

Cody, Part Two

By Chris Thomas. I went back to Cody for another 5 day trip just a couple of weeks after the first one. Chris Warner, a world-renowned mountaineer and alpinist, owner of Earth Treks, and my partner for an upcoming Alaska trip met Jesse Mease and I for another great bachelor week. Perfect weather and the best conditions I've ever seen in Cody made for a productive trip! Sunrise on the approach to Broken Hearts




Snow slogging...


The incredible pitch 5 amphitheatre of Broken Hearts! Carotid Artery is on the left.



Pitch 6 of Broken Hearts


Pitch 7
Warner cooking up some delicious grub after a long day in the hills


Another alpine start and beautiful Cody sunrise



Ice Fest
Crossing the frozen Shoshone River


I can't wait to go back!


Chris Thomas

Bishop Eye Candy

In the past few months, I've taken a few trips to Bishop with friends. Following is a video by David Sjoquist that includes a fraction of the climbing we did! Thanks Bishop for all the fun!!!

Bishop from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.


-Christine Balaz

Spring Break at Smith Rock

We just got back from a 7-day whirlwind trip to central Oregon. Smith Rock is a popular destination for British Columbia climbers stuck in winter's icy grip, and spring break is the time to go down. I've been doing trips to Smith for well over a decade and have had all types of weather, from heat waves to snow, sometimes in the same week. One thing's for sure, you are bound to get drier weather than in the Vancouver-Seattle-Portland corridor, so if you don't mind enduring the odd cold day, a trip in mid-March is quite workable.

Nights at this time of year are cold, though, so you might wish to choose indoor accommodation, although the Skull Hollow campground remains busy enough during this time. Nearby Redmond has all the supplies you'll need, including showers at the local pool. Drive 20 minutes farther to Bend for more selection and a more interesting town.

Welcome to Smith. The hiking and trail running in the park is excellent if you need a day off from climbing. The trails are good and the views are excellent.


A view looking west from the summit of the Misery Ridge trail. The famous crack "The Optimist" is located on a clean overhanging wall on the right side of the ridge in amongst the small orange coloured towers.


The Phoenix Buttress at sunrise. On the far right of the photo is the Christian Brothers zone, home to famous routes such as Rude Boys (13c) and Scarface (14a). The nice thing about Smith is all kinds of routes sit side by side, allowing groups of all abilities to enjoy the park.


The iconic Monkey Face, on the backside of the park. The route Monkey Space (5.11c) ascend a diagonal right-to-left line across the dark brown "head" of the Monkey. This route comes highly recommended and offers great exposure and a true summit experience. The 40-metre free-hanging rappel at the end is wild!


The Churning Buttress. This chunk of rock is home to some of the finest stone in the park. A climber ascend an excellent 5.9/10c in the centre of the photo. Kings of Rap (5.12d) takes on the sharp, shadowed roof on the right side of the photo. This zone is home to a bunch of excellent routes and is very popular with climbers of all abilities.


Looking down at the Dihedrals. Chain Reaction (12c) follows the short, undercut arete in the lower left portion of the photo. Darkness at Noon (13a) and Heinous Cling (12a/12c) climb the super smooth wall to the right, and To Bolt or Not To Be (14a) climbs the tallest vertical face in the middle of the photo.


A view of the dihedrals from below with a climber starting Chain Reaction.


Chain Reaction (12c).


We skied a day at Mt. Bachelor and hit pay dirt. The sun came out and the snow conditions were phenomenal. If you go to Smith at this time of year, it is definitely worth bringing your skies for a day off. Bachelor is exactly a one-hour drive from the park and at a much higher elevation.



They have over 12 feet of snow up there this year!!!


We took a detour on the journey home and did two great hikes along the coast. The first was a pleasant 2-hour round trip journey out Cape Lookout in northern Oregon (just south of Tillamook). The trail was muddy, but well-used and the views at the end of the hike were excellent. This is a photo of Haystack Rock, on Cannon Beach, where we spent the night. Beautiful spot...


On our last day before coming home, we drove into Olympic National Park and hiked an awesome nine-mile loop at Lake Ozette. Three miles of incredible boardwalk through old-growth forest leads to the beach. Three miles down the beach leads to a sandy bay and three miles back through the forest gets you home. People choose to camp on the beach and I don't blame them - it's spectacular. If you find yourself in this area, we highly recommend this loop.


Hello from Squamish and enjoy the spring everybody.

Marc Bourdon

Friday, March 18, 2011

The Eiger!

A snow storm made things interesting during a recent solo of "The Englishman's Route" in RMNP.

The Eiger North Face. The "1938 Route" follows a series of ramps and snow fields, beginning on the lower right portion of the wall, and ending on the upper left.

Tomorrow I leave for Grindelwald, Switzerland, which sits at the base of the Eiger's North Face. For the first week I will be working on Jeff Lowe's new movie (check it out here: jefflowemovie.com). Then I'm hoping for the right mix of weather and conditions to solo the Alps great North Faces--the Eiger, Matterhorn, and Grand Jorasse.

With that in mind, I've been spending my few weeks at home after Patagonia, doing lots of alpine mixed climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park. Getting out for good old fashioned spindrift suffer days with friends, and doing some solos as well. I've had some excellent days, with a highlight being the probable first winter solo of "The Englishman's Route" on Hallet's Peak. My father made the first ascent of this route on a summer road trip in 1958! It was quite an adventure; amazing how a 5.8 summer romp can be a different beast in winter! I used a mix of free soloing and rope soloing, breaking out the rope on two of eight pitches.
I'm incredibly excited for my upcoming adventures! I hope all of you have some great spring projects as well! I'll check back in, and let you know how it all turned out when I'm home in mid-April. Also, keep your eye out for feature articles on "The Wave Effect" (Our new Patagonia link-up that Whit wrote about earlier on this blog.) in upcoming issues of Desnivel and Rock and Ice Magazines. They should appear early this summer. Thanks again to Mammut for all of their support!

Friday, March 11, 2011

Cody, WY Bachelor Week

by Chris Thomas

A car load of beer and steak, ice climbing, four good friends, and a cabin in the South Fork of the Shoshone near Cody, WY is the perfect recipe for a week of bachelorhood, long days in the mountains, and lots and lots of fun. Two friends from my days of climbing in the Adirondacks, Nick Sisk and Ian Boyer, plus myself and the one and only Jonathan Thesenga headed north for some much needed winter adventure.

Home sweet home for the next several days. Photo: Nick Sisk

JT and one of our objectives for the day, Moonrise


JT and Ian racking up. Photo: Nick Sisk

Pillar of Pain
Pillar of Pain (Ian Boyer climbing)
Futuristic looking potential mixed route. Believe it or not, this has touched down as a pillar before! Nick and Ian crossing the frozen Shoshone RiverChilling out after a long day in the hills. Photo: Nick Sisk


Wind River Canyon. Photos: Nick Sisk
Sub-zero weather and beer-slushy. Life is good!

Part Two coming soon.

Chris Thomas

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Kane Springs Canyon + Indian Creek

This weekend my friend, Zac Robinson, and I headed down to Kane Springs Canyon (near Moab) and Indian Creek. On the first day we climbed the Predator Tower, a muddy little spire on the edge of Kane Springs Canyon. After that, we went to The Creek, but I'm not going to post any photos of that, because all you'd see is toproping and crying.

Kane Springs Canyon as it opens into a proper valley.


Zac Robinson Photo
Predator Tower is barely visible, viewer's right.


Zac Robinson Photo

Zac Robinson Photo
Wide-angle lenses aren't flattering for anyone up close.

Zac Robinson Photo
Belay station

Zac Robinson Photo
Topping out feels scary


Looking down

Calling the dog (black dot, bottom left)

Zac Robinson Photo

Zac Robinson Photo

Zac Robinson Photo
Freaking BRRRRR

Zac Robinson Photo

Zac Robinson Photo

Crossing the pokey riverbed

Zac Robinson Photo
Checking out the Devil's Golf Ball




-Christine Balaz