Where to begin....

I have now been back in the comfort of my home for 4 days now after 3 very busy weeks.

Here is the recap:

ESPN's Winter X Games 15
Aspen, CO



Was incredible. Just getting the invite felt amazing. But by far the best/most intense course I have ever had the privelige to compete on. From the quarter pipe start to the 95 foot gap on the final jump, I had to constantly reminding myself that I could do it, and I deserved my spot there.

I was the youngest competitor in my competition, not to mention the smallest (unfortunately, by roughly 30-40 pounds). That being said, it was definitely an honor to be competing against guys like Daron Rahlves, Kc Puckett, Chris Delbosco, and John Teller to name a few. just talking those guys and getting to know them made my year.

Qualifying day came and went, and just like that I had not made the cut. I had two very smooth, clean runs, but they just weren't fast enough. Bummed at first, but that feeling quickly left as I realized I was racing THE BEST 27 racers IN THE WORLD... and I was number 28. Can't complain about that at 20 years old.

My favorite part of X Games (that didnt have to do with my competition) had to be the "Athlete Lounge". This is the place where ONLY the ATHLETES competing in X Games got to go and relax and get dressed in the morning, eat lunch, take a break between runs, or just hang out. What was so great? EVERYTHING WAS FREE! Buffet's for breakfast and lunch, Fridges filled with endless Vitamin water, Muscle Milk, Monster, Red Bull, etc. There were baskets of snacks, and the entire room was surrounded in plasma tv's with X Box 360's, live feeds to other venues, and the latest ski movie segments (which was crazy because most of the time when you were watching a ski clip from a movie, you were within a 5-10 foot proximity of that person you were watching).

So, all in all it was an experience of a lifetime! Would I liked to have done better? OF COURSE! just like everyone else, I want to win! but only one can win, and unfotunately, this time, it wasnt me. But in the sport of skier cross, I am still very much considered young to be where I am and there is still plenty of time.

Here is a little GoPro footage of the Ski Cross course at X.

Untitled from Ethan Fortney on Vimeo.

FIS Freestyle World Championships
Deer Valley, Utah



This one came as a VERY pleasant surprise.

As I was on my way to Lake Tahoe, CA for my next competition, I received a call from Abbi Nyberg (head of the U.S Ski associations ski cross program). The call went a little something like this:

Ethan-"E"
Abbi- "A"

E "Hello?"
A "Hey Ethan, how's it going?"
E "Great, just driving through a canyon somewhere in Utah, on my way to Tahoe"
A "oh, well dont drive too far, we have a spot for you at Worlds"
E "WHAT?! that better not be a joke. Abbi are you joking...?"

shortly after my last question/statement, the canyon took it's tole on the service of my phone and I lost the connection. I couldn't call her back for another 30 minutes.... But when we reconnected she assured me she was not kidding, that the U.S had four spots and that I was number 4!

So, rather then driving another 300 miles to Tahoe, I drove another hour to my VERY nice (US Ski team payed for) condo in Deer Valley for the WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS.

That was more of an honor then X Games in my mind. Last summer I was 1 of 4 athletes chosen to go to New Zealand to represent the U.S at the JUNIOR World Championships (where I placed 7th), and now here I was, a few months later, going to the World Championships. No Junior.

shortly after arrival I met up with Abbi, and we headed up to the press conference where they named the U.S World Championship Team. Talk about meeting some high up people... if they had to do with the US Ski team, they were in that room. I got to chat with the mogul and aerial teams for a bit, then one by one we (the US team) were all called up to the podium so the press could get their pictures.



I'm on the far right in the red/white/blue hat

The next morning I woke up to a very tight chest and I knew it was going to be a tough week. by noon I began coughing and it was downhill from there.

Day 1 of training came and it was bitter cold, something like -20 F. I don't have all that great of circulation in my feet on a 90 degree day due to ski boots.... that day, you can't even imagine what they felt like. Not to mention every breath of that air burned deep in my congested chest. But, Besides the lack of feeling in my feet, and the sickness, training went great. It was a course that suited me well. There were a lot of tight turns and complex terrain. The Second day of training came, and It was just as cold and I was feeling confident, yet still as sick as ever.

Untitled from Ethan Fortney on Vimeo.

Day 3/ Qualifying day came and we finally got to see the entire field of athletes (around 75 of us from around the world) in one spot. My ski's were running fast and I was feeling A LOT better. I ran 39th.

My run went well. hit all the transitions very smooth, and ran the line we had been training the last couple days. I crossed the finish line and was in 38th. Thats where I would stay for the remainder of the competitors. the top 32 moved on. Only 1 of the 4 U.S athletes (John Teller) moved on. He went on to get 5th place with the support of the entire US team at the finish cheering him on.

I gave it my best. And because of that, I can't find it in myself to be upset with my result.

Give me a year, and 20 lbs. and the results will be different. This has been my first year in these huge events, and I didn't come into them intending to win. I came into them with nothing to lose, and a goal to only gain experience. And thus far, I have exceeded that goal.

White Pass, Wa

While I have been back I got one pow day in last sunday and I was lucky enough to link up with a photographer and do a little shooting in the back country. CHECK IT OUT!



Hiking up to hit the little kicker



tapping the tree



Slope jacket



Thanks to Steve Schmidt @ Olyphotos.com for all the pics!

What's next?

I'm going to the home of our brand! I leave sunday the 27th for Zurich, SUI! Ill be there for about 10 days and will be competing in two more world cups there before returning home on the 8th!

WISH ME LUCK!

Hope you enjoyed!
talk to you all soon!

-Ethan

Patagonia 2011 ~ "Wave Effect" in Effect

I am proud to say that from February 19 through the 23 Josh Wharton, Nate Opp, and I completed a team free enchainment of Desomochada, La Silla, and Fitz Roy, completing one of Patagonia's long-standing projects. We all made it down happy and healthy!

~ Three amigos after the 5 day push


~The Wave Effect VI 5.12+ AI2 (black line marking route)


~ Thanks to Mammut for the support

Whit Magro

Patagonia 2011 - Dropping In

Above is the forecast. Time to go up, or as I sometimes like to say.....Dropping in.



~whit

Road Trip – Spanish Fork Canyon and Ouray, CO

By Chris Thomas

It got a little too warm for ice climbing in Utah, so Jesse Mease and I hit the road and headed for Ouray, Colorado. The goal was to tick off some of the naturally forming longer lines outside of the ice park.

With such warm weather forecasted, we thought we'd split up the six hour drive and climb a desert tower or two on the way. About half way to Moab, however, in Spanish Fork Canyon, we rounded a corner and stumbled upon this beauty:

Rock climbing plans canceled! We pulled over into the shoulder of Highway 6 and ran up to the base as fast as we could. We had to give it a shot...

Unfortunately, it was a long, long ways from touching down, and the rock was far too chossy for rock climbing to get to the ice. But we found a sketchy looking passageway that connected some ledge systems on the left. Poor rock and worse anchors made for a pretty hair raising endeavor...

No go! The ice was super chandeliered and delaminated, we bailed. This is one to keep an eye on - to my knowledge it hasn't been climbed. With a little more time and cold weather the ice may re-bond to the rock.

Exploring the cave below the free-hanger:

The Talisman, Ouray, Colorado

After the Spanish Fork debacle, we arrived in Ouray with just enough light to allow a ski up Camp Bird road to check conditions. Although in awfully lean conditions, the Talisman looked climbable and we made plans for an early start the next morning.

Sunrise on Camp Bird Road

The first pitch wasn't in, there was basically no ice until the very top. But we climbed a rock pitch to the right of the standard first pitch that proved to be a harsh wake up call (and incredibly fun, in a sick sort of way)! Snow covered rock and not much gear to be found, save for some icy cam placements and bad pitons.

Jesse following the incredible second pitch

Third pitch: STEEP ice to a good rest, followed by unrelenting thuggery to the top

All in all, one of the best multi-pitch mixed routes I've ever done. There's lots more to do around Ouray, I can't wait to go back!

Cheers,

Chris Thomas

Comp/ Bouldering in Little Cottonwood

This weekend we had to stay in SLC, as David had to build problems for a competition at The Front. Having not done competitions in some years, I decided to join.

The Plastic Passion Comp, The Front, Salt Lake City.

--

The following day, the weather was really nice. And despite David's fingers having unclimbably bad splits, my body being tired from the comp, and my guidebook being in Montana, and the canyons being somewhat covered in snow, we decided to head to Little Cottonwood Canyon to find some slab bouldering and fresh air.

Me on an unknown slab.

Taking lunch in the warm, warm sun.

David sending an unknown, wet, hard slab. (I know; I tried...)

On Shingles.

-Christine Balaz

Desmochada Adventure!

Of course the weather arrived just as one partner was headed home, and Nate Opp and Whit Magro were still in transit from the States. Fortunately I was able to round up a partner--a young and eager Neil Kauffman--and climb a new route on Desmochada, laying great groundwork for our ultimate project, "The Wave Effect;" The steep, unclimbed enchainment of the south face of Desmochada, Silla, and Fitz Roy, the best link-up left in the range in my opinion.

Check out some photos, and details about out the climb on Neil's blog:

joelandneilsclimbingblog.blogspot.com

Some good weather is on the way, and we're excited by the possibility!
Hope you're all having a great finish to your winter.
Cheers!
Josh Wharton

Patagonia 2011 ~ Update

There is no lonelier place in the world for a climber than arriving in El Chalten during high pressure.

Nate and I arrived at the tail end of high pressure, meaning the weather was good and every climber in town went "up". Lots of good success for many teams. One being Wharton and Neil Kauffman, they did a new route on Desmochada. Hats off to these guys. Rad!

For Nate and me, it's been a bunch of bouldering which is not something you would really consider while on an alpine climbing trip. It's amazing here in El Chalten, and quite a destination spot for many South American boulders. I sent V9 today!

Nate, Josh, and I are now hanging out with bags packed waiting for the upcoming weather window. At the moment things are looking quite good. Quite good!!!!


Whit

Moe's Valley, Part Deux

Another long weekend meant it was time to head south again to Moe's Valley for three days of climbing and one day of hiking around.

Warming up on the Device Igniter Boulder.

... and leaving just in time.

Me working unnamed "h" (V8) on the TeePee Boulder.

David doing the left variation of this roof problem, TeePee Boulder.

Traversing the Monkey Boy Boulder.

Me climbing Is Rail (V6).

Is Rail from Christine Balaz on Vimeo.

A video of me trying this. (I would send it later.)

Coffee and food in the morning.

Me walking my way to health.

Rest day hiking, up by the Power Lines Boulders. (More walking to health.)

Untitled from Christine Balaz on Vimeo.

Steve doing her job.

-Christine Balaz

Patagonia 2011......

I'm sitting in the Salt Lake air port having just left Bozeman at 6 degrees with a foot of fresh snow. Finally a blessing from the powder gods and I am leaving. Seems to be a standard for me. I'll have to wait until March.

I'm on my way to Patagonia for another round of hopeful alpine climbing. Nate Opp out of Bozeman, Josh Wharton from Colorado, and my self make up our team. We have all the latest and greatest from Mammut to fend off the harsh weather that rips through down here. Most exciting is that we have some huge plans for this trip. I would like to share one of the tools that we used in planning. It's a newish web site that was set up by the foremost expert in Patagonia. Check it out at www.PATAclimb.com. It's a comprehensive guide to most of the climbing that exists in the Fitz Roy and Torre Groups.

I will be making regular posts at this blog site to keep all those interested in our adventures current to our location and our climbing . Stay tuned and please send us some high pressure.


Whit Magro

Superbowl Sunday

by Chris Thomas

Lots of people host Superbowl parties. Wings, beer, big screen TVs – I probably got 5 or 6 invites from friends hosting parties of the standard variety. But one invite in particular stood out – a pre-gamer 300 feet off the deck on a frozen waterfall in Little Cottonwood Canyon!!!

We packed up a full sized grill, about 100 cans of beer, a 5 gallon bucket full of burgers, brats, garlic, peppers, 2 bags of charcoal, lawn chairs, and a set of pink flamingos and hauled them up the route.

Chillin' out next to the grill half way up the GWI!

Scene of the climb – the Great White Icicle. There’s a great ledge at the base of the 3rd pitch.

Mass transit junk show to get to the party

Lovely Sarah en route

Not a bad place for a BBQ! Photo: Zac Robinson
We forgot one thing...the spatula. Kyle's Piolet D'Or being put to good use Photo: Zac Robinson

Photo: Zac Robinson

Photo: Zac Robinson

All beer consumed, things started to get a little, well, wierd... Jesse getting down with a pink flamingo

All in all, not a bad way to spend a Sunday afternoon. I hope this will be an annual event!

Chris Thomas