The Incrediable Hulk + 9.2 + Moses = Good Times

I recently ventured off to California for some super fine rock climbing. We stumbled into Little Slide canyon where the Incredible Hulk looms on the Eastern side of the Sierra. Some of the finest alpine stone in North America.
We carried in super light loads; the key to that being the 9.2 Revelation, 60 meters of 6 mil pro cord for a pull line, and an entire rack of Mosses wire gates. The less weight the better right?

The first day Justin Griffin and I climbed a route called Solar Flare which is stacked, with 4 of the the 8 pitches covering the whole spectrum of 5.12 from A to D. The route went very smooth, I guess I was lucky to have climbed the whole route clean except that burly 12 D pitch. I took a bunch of falls on that but eventually made it. We topped out then rappelled right on down the line back to the shoes. For me there is nothing better than putting on my shoes and soft socks at the end of a day. It's the simple things in life.

The second day waking up we were feeling a bit less motivated but after thirty cups of coffee we were rearing to go. We switched partners (there were four of us) and both teams decided to climb a route called Positive Vibrations V 5.11. It's named so because for thirteen hundred feet you're jammin. It's absolutely splitter the whole way. Pat Wolfe and Justin, then Tony Brown and I sailed up this fine route in a few hours, summited, descended, and then we walked right on out of there to the nearest burger joint we could find. Above: Justin at the crux of Positive Vibrations. Below: Tony Brown following the last pitch .


Whit Magro
Bozeman, MT

Croatia (Omis), Slovenia (Marja Pec/ Osp), (Italy, Austria, Munich,) Frankejnjura, Ceuse, Orpierre

Well, It's been a bit of a haul. 

Nathan, Dean, Cheri, Heather, and I spent a few more days chasing good weather in Croatia. Had a few more days of climbing in hot/ off-and-on rain in Croatia with the crew. The rain increased, though, and Nathan, Cheri, and I rented a car and got outta Croatia en route to Munich via Slovenia, Italy, and Austria. 

We made a brief stopover in Osp, Slovenia. Not surprisingly, it was super hot with afternoon rain- but nonetheless we decided to brave the weather and head up to the crag of Misja Pec . Despite rain, it was a great climbing afternoon- and we got in a really quick 6 or 7 pitches.

After Misja Pec, we traveled by car through Slovenia and Austria- both extremely mountainous and beutiuful, and then into Munich where Nathan and Cheri were to catch a plane home. I embarked on a long public transportation/ pedestrian journey to Frankenjura... 

I arrived in Untertrubach, location of the famous "Oma" (Granny) Eichler, owner of the climber campground Gasthof Eichler (www.gasthof-eichler.de). Martha is a splendid lady who kindly spoke with clearly articulated German, that I could understand her and reply using my 8-years-expired German language skills. As has been the case, seemingly, with everywere I've travelled this spring (Red River Gorge, Spain, whatever), this was the wettest conditions many of the locals have ever seen-- so we climbed, but we climbed on wet rocks.

Unfortunately, the weather never really cleared, and also I never wrapped my head around the climbing at Frankenjura. It seems that each day I climbed, I got worse! I think a number of factors contributed to this: the high heat and wetness, very high humidity, seeping rocks, strangely-shaped, finger-strength-intensive pockets, awkward clipping stances, greased and knobby foot edges, and oft very spaced bolt placements... these all surely contributed to the problems I had... 

But I suppose I felt that the problem I there was that I never figured out how to climb "well"- I never really figured out how to best relax in strenuous situations-- with straigh-arm clips, creative body positioning, dropped heels, minimal "gripping", smart bolt clipping (if that means clipping at or above the bolt)-- but rather, I felt the climbing and conditions required over-gripping (which here seemed necessary), poor clipping stances (strenuous), bad foot technique, etc, etc... in other words- I just never figured out how to climb it properly. 

So I busted a hasty move to Ceuse.

....

Turns out Ceuse is truly a climber's paradise. The camping is plush (FREE hot showers, plenty of shade trees, relaxed international community), the lifestyle is great: beautiful approach hike, long mornings in the campsite, and spectacular limestone. 

I'm getting a proper beat-down. It's no secret that the hike is long, the climbing is sustained, and the bolts are spaced. And it's still really affecting me, but it seems that this is just part of the hazing process that everyone must go through. Boot camp, in a sense. Still, though, it's one of the best places in the world for such a pummeling. 

So I've relented a bit and am allowing myself more rest days, later mornings, etc, etc.... I'm really settling in now. I have a caravan of my own (!!!) and am now able to get some work done here and there.  I've already watched a few major sets of people come and go in my three weeks here, and I'm really enjoying the fact that I get to be the one staying behind for once!

I'm also trying to take side trips when the opportunity arrises. Though Ceuse is freaking RAD, it's also a good place to leave for a while... take a break from the hike, the run-outs, etc.... and come back with a refreshed mind and a true appreciation for the place. as

More soon. Peace from southern France!

-Christine Balaz

Mountain niceness training tips

Waking up this morning I was greeted with the crisp crisp mountain air. My hands and feet were freezing as I rode my cruiser bike to coffee shop. The sunrises are looking a bit different....and yes the days are getting shorter. It is true I am crazed by the glorious snow and winter! I do enjoy our beautiful Idaho summers filled with amazing mt biking, climbing and hiking but they are all preparation.....for the epic winter ahead of us!

Here is a training tip for you to add to the mix. Enjoy and have a laugh.....and some fun!
http://production.plumtv.com/video_player/sun_valley/11572_sv_tip_exer_bosuball2.flv

Cheers,
Danny Irie Walton

Mt. Huntington, AK

Rick Vance and I just got back from a great trip to Mt. Huntington, Alaska. This was my fifth trip to the Alaska Range, and my third to Mt. Huntington in particular. Mt. Huntington had become something of a grudge match for me – after 5 individual attempts to climb it’s west face, and being shut down every single time by the notoriously bad weather, I was close to calling it quits and never returning. But there’s something about that pointy summit and pyramid shaped sides that have a gravitational pull on me – I couldn’t get it off of my head and knew I had to try one more time.

Most people climb Mt. Huntington via its popular West Face Couloir (AKA Nettle Quirk), but I’ve always been drawn to the ultra-aesthetic Harvard Route (West Ridge). The climbing is much more difficult, and the line of the route itself is incredible . We wanted to do the first single –push style ascent of this route, and after having been on it a couple of times before I knew it pretty well and figured we had a shot at it.

Bergshrund to Berschrund it took us 27 hours – it was a great day out!

After resting for a few days, we noticed a very stunning and unclimbed line on the huge face between the WF Couloir and the Harvard Route.

In disconcerting weather we left base camp at about 5AM and started skiing to the base.

The second pitch was the crux – M7+ climbing over a roof to WI5 ice.

Rick leading a mixed pitch high on the route.

We intersected the Harvard Route about 2,000 feet above the glacier. We're calling our new line the "Community College Couloir" in a pun on the Harvard boys.

Cheers-
Chris Thomas

Canadian Limestone

We've been going over to Vancouver Island to climb on the awesome limestone near Parksville. The style of climbing here is the polar opposite of the granite walls in Squamish and it's an expensive trip, but it's well worth the effort. It's a nice change, especially if you're planning a European vacation! I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Enjoy...
Marc Bourdon - Squamish, BC