I just got back from the Antarctic Peninsula where I was ski guiding on Doug Stoup's Ice Axe Expeditions ski cruise. It was the first trip of it's kind and an amazing one at that. We were on a 180' boat with motivated skiers. Our crossing of the Drake Passage, known to be some of the roughest seas in the world, were pretty benign. We did have one day of 20' swell--all day long plates were crashing in the dinning room while we all tried to avoid sea sickness by doping on dramaminne.

On the Peninsula, we had outstanding weather--7 days of sun. The skiing conditions were usually a few inches of soft snow over firm snow. The terrain was endless.

In two days I head back to the Peninsula. This time on a 70' sailboat to help a film crew capture footage of Stian Hagen and Chris Davenport.

Praying for a Drake Lake!

Doug Workman

Castleton Tower & Indian Creek

The Moab area is one of my favorite places to climb anywhere. Terry and I traveled from NH to Utah to attend the AMGA's annual meeting. The meeting has technical and board meetings which work on issues such as access, member benefits, and guide education to name a few. There are plenty of fun events - the guide olympics - a variety of technical clinics - the silent gear auction and a desert requirement Jeff Unger and Andres Marin led an Offwidth Clinic. Guest speaker Jack Tackle had a great slide show on his ascents in Alaska and around the world. This years meeting was attended by many and next years should be even bigger as its scheduled to be in Boulder, Colorado.


There is always time to get out and enjoy the climbing. The first photos are of our climb of the Kor Ingals Route on Castleton Tower. The day started out warm and sunny then turned to cold and windy. Mammuts Microlayer Limited Edition Wind jacket and Outline Jacket provided us the needed wind break and kept us warm. These are two lightweight products that can be easily stowed in a small pack. I chose the 60meter Twilight 7.5mm Twin Ropes for this climb. This rope system is light, easier to use than the half ropes, and I had the benefit was of full length rappels. I recommend these ropes for a party of two on rock and ice routes with a technical descent.

The other photos are of the amazing Indian Creek area. We spent a few days here climbing splitter cracks and varnished corners on the Scarface Wall and Battle of the Bulge Buttress. No where in the US are one pitch routes more gear intensive. Its all cams for protection. You may need six or more of one size to protect the longer classic lines. This trip was much to short but it renewed my desire to climb in the desert. I am starting my plans for a 2010 trip.



This may have been my last rock trip of the season. Cold and snow is on the way in NH. It could be time to sharpen up the crampons and ice tools.

Art Mooney

RideGuide TV - Mt. Biking and Climbing near Sun Valley

I had a great time filming again with the RideGuide TV. Here is some mountain biking and climbing action from around the Sun Valley, Idaho area.

Bring on Winter.......Enjoy!
Danny Irie Walton

http://rideguidebike.mobilerider.com/flash/player/index.php?vendor_id=891&video_id=22288

The Honeymoon is Over (and was great!)

Amy and I just got back from our honeymoon a couple of weeks ago and what a great time it was. We checked out Vancouver (one of the coolest cities of all time) and then headed up into the mountains. We climbed several perfect and completely dry days in Squamish and even hit up the world famous downhill mountain bike park in Whistler. For two weeks we had absolutely perfect weather and managed to see some of the most beautiful places we have been so far. Climbing the Black Tusk in Garibaldi Provincial Park was a highlight....although not technically difficult, it was one of the prettiest views I have ever seen. The climbing in Squamish was actually a lot like here in North Carolina with maybe a few more splitters than we have. All in all it was an amazing experience and a perfect way to celebrate our marriage. We will definitely be back. As for the gear we used, I pretty much lived in the new Ultimate hoody the entire trip. If you haven't picked one of these up yet, you should! And of course, the Infinity is still my favorite rope of all time- the perfect weight, size for everyday abuse. So, if you haven't made it up there yet, put Squamish on your list and try to go in the Fall when you are likely to have good weather.

Mid-life Chrysalis

Mid-life Chrysalis
by John Atkinson
Mammut Ambassador



Twenty years ago, if you asked me how I thought I'd spend my fortieth birthday, there is no way I would have predicted dirt-jumping and downhill mountain biking to celebrate.


And yet, it was exactly how I wanted to spend it.

(all bike images by Peter Wadsworth)

Mountain biking has long been a passion, but downhill and bigger air were not part of my repetorie until fairly recently.

In a few short seasons though, I've started doing things I never thought possible for me. My addictions to gravity, adrenaline and endorphins have grown too.

Through a combination of hanging with better riders and coaching lots of beginners through the techniques, my skills have developed.
Old dogs can learn new tricks ... not that I'm old yet.

So what does all this have to do with Mammut? Well, to start, mountain biking in Vermont is often cool and nothing keeps me more comfortable than Mammut's base layers.

They're stretchy enough for armor, form-fitting enough for good wicking, durable enough for ripping through the blackberry patches. The new wool mixes look even better.

I've got enough to worry about, staying on the line and flowing down the hill. All the gear has to work.

Trail-building is another addiction that has only grown over the years and Mammut's Nirvana backpack is the absolute best pack I've ever used. Believe me, carrying a rake, pulaski, mcleod, rock bar, handsaw, loppers, water, food, extra clothes, medical and repair kit, and sometimes chainsaw chaps and a protective helmet will test any pack.

All the strapping options allow for tremendous versatility, the big ice axe loops actually fit the tools and I swear it makes 50 pounds feel like 30 pounds. ;)

A friend told me 40 is the new 28. I am a big fan of this "new math." Alright!

Fall is winding down here in Vermont's Mad River Valley, although this particular season has been out-of-the-world gorgeous, with vibrant leaf colors and a nice coating of mountain snow to really set off the displays.

We were busy at Sugarbush right through Columbus weekend, with Adventure camps and bike clinics. Even in the cold rain, the kids had a great time. Check out the slackline and our nature scavenger hunt!

The snow prompted thoughts of turns, which my wife and I made a reality as soon as we could.
Early season skiing on the East Coast is best enjoyed on upper elevation, grassy, low-angle slopes, like the kind you might find at Mad River Glen.

Snow in October doesn't usually last more than a few hours, but this round has continued to hang on for more than a week.

No sense wasting time though. Freshies in the foliage are pretty fine.

Just in case you were wondering, the Nirvana excels as a winter mountain pack too.

Sometimes the beauty just takes your breath away.

Ski hitchhikers on RT 17.

A few views of Sugarbush.

So, turning forty may not be what it used to be, but it's still a milestone for many of us. Happily, I have rededicated my life to the mountains and hope for at least forty more excellent years of gravity grooving, smiling in the rain, and relishing the sun and snow.

Happy fall!

p.s. I am convinced that mountain biking is the single best cross-over sport to skiing and snowboarding. The movements, focus and fun are almost exactly the same. Gravity still works in the summer. Here's something to consider, my big bike has essentially bottomless suspension. Imagine riding bottomless powder year-round. Mmmm, okay.

Kalymnos!

We’ve been in Kalymos for about two weeks now and the climbing is ridiculous. It’s so good that it’s hard to imagine sport climbing getting much better, and the Grande Grotta has some of the longest, steepest routes I've ever done. The extension pitches range from 50 to 55 m and the climbing is extremely steep. Although you can walk to a number of the best cliffs from the town of Massouri, it seems as though having some form of transportation really opens up the options. We rented a car today for the remainder of our stay and look forward to touring the island and visiting some outlying cliffs. Crowding here in October is a bit of a problem, but it's understandable why everyone comes at this time. The water is still warm for swimming and the cliffs are starting to cool off and offer decent conditions. Plus, there is very little seepage in the tufas because of the timing at the end of the dry summer.

The Grande Grotta.


Sector Arhi.


There are lots of cats around here...


Ivy (7b) in the Grande Grotta.


Aegealis (7c) in the Grande Grotta. One of the best routes in the cave!


DNA (7a+)


The incredible Trella (7a) on the right side of the Grande Grotta cave.


Church above the port city of Pothia.


Climb at Odyssey sector at sunset.


Beach on the island of Telendos.


Climbing-wise, so far I’ve sent two monster routes in the Grande Grotta cave, Super Priapos and DNA Extension (both 8a+). I brought an 80m Mammut Infinity rope and this sure is coming in handy for cleaning draws and lowering off the big cave routes. I’d highly recommend investing in a long rope before coming here, especially if you have designs on the longer pitches. I’d also recommend bringing between 30 and 40 quickdraws. You heard me right. Some of the routes are between 20-28 quickdraws long, and if you leave your draws on a project, you’ll still need at least 12 to climb elsewhere. Keep this in mind. Also, long slings are very useful for directing your rope around tufas and stalactites. Think trad climbing. I’d bring between 6 and 12, depending on whether or not you want to try the monster routes. Regardless, leave the short quickdraw slings at home. Bring medium to long quickdraw slings, at the very least.

The resident goat at the Grande Grotta.


Ivy (7b) at the Grande Grotta.


Swimming near the Grande Grotta.


Hari Kari (6b) at Spartacus sector.


Fish market in Pothia.


Church above Pothia.


Don't touch my Willy (13c) at sector Arhi.


Sunset over Telendos.


We are waiting for the conditions to cool off a bit before getting on the more fingery routes at the other crags. For now, we are searching for routes with largish holds that allow upward progress even when bathed with sweat!

Marc B

Alternative Activities in Rodellar

Alternative Activities in Rodellar:

Christine is sad m'puz she stabbed her thumb wif a big, mean, stinky-pants knife and couldn’t climb for four days… and then sad again m’puz a muscle in her back made a crunchy boo-boo.

I arrived in Rodellar about 1.5 weeks ago now, and was absolutely amazed… amazed by the weather (very un-Mallorcan: not raining), amazed by the climbing (cave after cave of steep, beautiful limestone in an beautiful, idyllic canyon). I was also pleased to check into the Kalandraka Refugio- which, unlike my last place of residence, has bathrooms, running water, electricity (not to be mixed with the running water), beds, and roofs. What’s up. And finally, it was good, as always, to meet the nice, new faces here and see several of the old, familiar faces from trips previous, including Ceuse.

If you haven’t been to Rodellar, know this: it’s like Disney Land for climbers. The deep canyon in which all the crags sit, is a twisty-turny gorge with stacks of luscious orange- and blue-streaked caves of all aspects and sizes. A spring-fed river meanders through the bottom and well-worn foot paths cross it here and there on lilly-pad-like stepping stones. There are caves up high, caves down low. Caves in the sun, caves in the shade. Orange rock, white rock, blue rock, grey rock. Walls with big jugs, and walls with more tufas than you’ve ever seen in your life. Some techy climbs, but heaps and heaps of steep lines. Thousands and thousands of bolts and an often a pleasant breeze. Mild approaches –just enough to get the blood flowing a bit, yet not so much as to prohibit two- and three-crag days. There are arches and climbs going straight up the underbellies of these natural windows. 40-meter routes and 15-meter routes. Basically, paradise.

Especially after Mallorca’s rain (and even after the vertical tech-climbing of Ceuse), I was incredibly ready to soak this up! Mostly excellent weather (shirtless climbing and puffy-jacket belaying), an unending list of new routes, and such physical climbing… Oh my! After the first few days, I was so sore from head-to-toe that it was difficult to walk or even sit properly. Though the routes here are supposed to be softly rated, I found them to be, ehh, ehm, pretty tough, as I was completely unaccustomed to such steepness. But I was soooo ready to become accustomed to it! I could feel fitness soaking into my body every day. I was getting nervous that I might rip my clothes if I accidentally flexed.

And then… four climbing days later: STAB! Without going into the whole story, let’s just say that I managed to stab through the pad of my thumb (entrance and exit holes) with a very sharp knife. So. Understanding that it needed time to heal properly (lest it become a never-ending infection), I took four days off. Ok. Good. It actually healed in enough in this time to climb again. Check.

But then 1.5 climbing days later: CRUNCH! Doing an (apparently strenuous) high-step/gaston move, a muscle in my lower back/ ribs decided to seize up/ pull/ hurt and burn a lot. So. Now I’m waiting for it to tell me whether to stay here and wait it out, or to go home and let it heal. Meanwhile, I’m occupying myself with (gasp!) work and other activities such as blog-writing and hiking… a friend and I walked a few hours to a ghost town (Otin) the other day. I’ve also been hiking back and forth to a PT’s office… but, as things go in Spain, he’s never really around during the times we agreed to meet. But that’s OK.

So, I suppose I’ll know in a few days whether I’ll be able to climb again soon, or whether I should take the next few weeks to get myself back to North America, take care of “life” there, and get back on the road (Southern Utah, Hueco, El Salto). All in all, not bad choices… but I’m really hoping to get to climb more in Rodellar than just 5.5 days.

More later...

-Christine Balaz